Strangely Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 Hi, I've noticed that there is a crack in my K-Series water rail, the one which runs alongside the block, just above the exhaust. The crack is just behind the mounting bolt, near the front of the engine, possibly originating from when my new exhaust was fitted some time ago. Water is weeping, rather than gushing out. Can this be reliably fixed, or do I need a new water rail? If it can be fixed, what's the best way? Cheery, Jason. http://www.strangely.org/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 Jason, If you mean the actual rail it's made out of steel so it could be mig welded or brazed. Phil S7SVN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strangely Posted July 18, 2003 Author Share Posted July 18, 2003 Thanks Phil. Yes, it's the actual rail which has cracked. I can't weld, but I know a man who can ;-) Do you know whether it could be done in-place, or would the rail need to be removed from the car / engine first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 I wouldn't be happy trying to weld something like that insitu, partially drain down your system and remove the complete pipe, I would also replace the small oval gasket where it bolts up to the rear of the block, there have been several postings regarding these weeping so a bit dodgy to re-use the old gasket, good luck. Phil S7SVN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 DO NOT DRIVE it in this condition.... *thumbdown* replace the water rail ❗ ❗ a head gasket is a terrible price to pay, as many(myself included) have learned *mad* we chased a water leak for 2 weeks we couldn't find, and it went to an unscrupulous dealer who said it wasn't the rail. the CC factory proved that indivual was W-R-O-N-Gand i got left with the bill (as have others). you have been warned ❗ ❗ Steve B Faster than the Speed of Dark Join us on the USA 2005 tour......HERE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 Replace it, they cost pence from breakers or pounds from Rover, assuming they exist on the cooking K. If not, tenners from Dartford. Either way, better than pulling the head off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 It is a Caterham part and is needed because of the North-south installation of the engine. Agree with Steve about don't drive it like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 ISTR its over 100 GBP + VAT. actually - why are there so many problems with it 🤔 The engine is made of soft cheese - the rail is made from a thwacking lump of steel.... HOOPY R706KGU Hoopylight R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 even if the price you say is 'the only price', it's still cheaper than a new headgasket/repair .... being pennywise and pound foolish with a K is truly the road to more expensive things. Steve B Faster than the Speed of Dark Join us on the USA 2005 tour......HERE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodrog Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 I've just had exactly the same problem on my 1995 1.4k. Fixed (welded) by Caterham at Dartford, cheaply, whilst car was in for service. They say they don't make the part any more, for that age of engine. Nodrog N910 RPM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonP Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 I had this problem too on my VVC car....the rail was from memory £80 something from Caterham. Think part of the problem is that the thing does not seem to be made too accurately (despite the £80 price tag) so you will find that it is under tension after you have put in the single bolt fixing above the exhaust. A couple of washers under the little bracket spaces it off so that it just sits nicely as nature intended. Also watch the gasket at the union to the head...there is very little contact area on the Rover gasket, I ended up making one out of gasket paper to maximise the sealing area. I would also recommend a smear of RTV on the gasket when fitting to make doublely sure. One of the reasons I now have a VX powered car... JonP No longer Sevenless....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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