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Quick uprated clutch advice


Luke Beaumont

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Discovered over the weekend that the Rover 200 has a rather too large clutch & flywheel for the K bellhousing, so I'm in the market for a clutch (the lightened flywheel (PTP or QED) was already on the cards). Now, when given the chance I'd always go for uprated stuff, so what's recommended for a mainly road, occasional track seven with sane horsepower? The Caterham/AP thing doesn't seem too expensive, and I guess the 5.5" sintered stuff is a bit too 'motorsport' for this application.

 

Thoughts anyone?

 

Thanks,

Luke

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The K-series ships from Rover with 2 sizes of flywheel, depending on the application. For a Caterham installation you need the small one. The 1.6 K-series that I got from a scrapped Rover 216 had the right size, I guess yours is a 1.8?

 

The AP clutch from Caterham is probably your best bet. It's what they fit to the SLR and R500. Peter C's ultra-lightweight flywheel and 5in clutch are superbly light, but it's not designed for slipping to every pull away is a full-bore wheelspin start. I'd find that a bit tedious for road use, YMMV.

 

Mike

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Tedious Mike??? For me thats normal!!!

 

The Quartermaster is not suitable for a road only car, Life is expecte not to exceed 2000 - 3000 miles.

 

Its a bitch if you dont have hydraulic actualtion already as well..

 

 

 

Arnie Webb

Organiser- L7C Le Mans Trip

To book for this years Le Mans Trip see The Le Mans Trip Website

It really is very very very very full now!!!

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Go on Peter.... Buy a Vauxhall.....

 

I reckon BTW I can change the plates in the QM just be sliding the engine forward - The VAUX wet sump has a handy hole where the lever used to stick out - plenty big enough for a 1/4" drive wrench!

 

My installation is coming on fine.... Garys making me a spacer for the slave cylinder.

 

Couple more questions re your setup.....

 

Did you run a flex hose out of the bellhousing with the clutch bleednipple on?? Its a bit tricky to bleed it in situ otherwise..

 

Also I'm confused by the spacers required to limit the throw on the master cyliner - are the clutch springs not strong enough to stop the slave cylinder pumping up?? or are the spacers to prevent too much throw in the slave if the master cyl can move full scale??

 

 

 

Arnie Webb

Organiser- L7C Le Mans Trip

To book for this years Le Mans Trip see The Le Mans Trip Website

It really is very very very very full now!!!

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Peter

 

I've just fitted a 5.5inch AP clutch with sintered metal discs, what plates are you using? fibrous or sintered, paddle or full diameter?

 

Arnie

 

I've used a 7.5 inch AP clutch with titan hydraulic actuator and 0.7 inch master cylinder. I've never fitted a stop.

 

If the master cylinder diameter and stroke and the slave cylinder "bore" happens to be right then you physically cannot achieve more than the permissible slave cylinder stroke. I guess this is what happened to me and I was just lucky. I hope I remain lucky with the present 5.5 inch clutch - perhaps I need to do some sums.

 

Regarding bleeding - Having more room in the bellhousing than Peter I fitted a second -3 hose out of the bellhousing with a bleed nipple (made from a bulkhead hose end fitting tapped for a bleed nipple) on the end just out of the bellhousing. I never thought Peter's bleeding thro the feed hose would work. I'm pleased to be proved wrong though, taking engines in and out to deal with minor clutch problems is a pain in the a**e.

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Peter

 

I've just fitted a 5.5inch AP clutch with sintered metal discs, what plates are you using? fibrous or sintered, paddle or full diameter?

 

Arnie

 

I've used a 7.5 inch AP clutch with titan hydraulic actuator and 0.7 inch master cylinder. I've never fitted a stop.

 

If the master cylinder diameter and stroke and the slave cylinder "bore" happens to be right then you physically cannot achieve more than the permissible slave cylinder stroke. I guess this is what happened to me and I was just lucky. I hope I remain lucky with the present 5.5 inch clutch - perhaps I need to do some sums.

 

Regarding bleeding - Having more room in the bellhousing than Peter I fitted a second -3 hose out of the bellhousing with a bleed nipple (made from a bulkhead hose end fitting tapped for a bleed nipple) on the end just out of the bellhousing. I never thought Peter's bleeding thro the feed hose would work. I'm pleased to be proved wrong though, taking engines in and out to deal with minor clutch problems is a pain in the a**e.

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Peter

 

I've just fitted a 5.5inch AP clutch with sintered metal discs, what plates are you using? fibrous or sintered, paddle or full diameter?

 

Arnie

 

I've used a 7.5 inch AP clutch with titan hydraulic actuator and 0.7 inch master cylinder. I've never fitted a stop.

 

If the master cylinder diameter and stroke and the slave cylinder "bore" happens to be right then you physically cannot achieve more than the permissible slave cylinder stroke. I guess this is what happened to me and I was just lucky. I hope I remain lucky with the present 5.5 inch clutch - perhaps I need to do some sums.

 

Regarding bleeding - Having more room in the bellhousing than Peter I fitted a second -3 hose out of the bellhousing with a bleed nipple (made from a bulkhead hose end fitting tapped for a bleed nipple) on the end just out of the bellhousing. I never thought Peter's bleeding thro the feed hose would work. I'm pleased to be proved wrong though, taking engines in and out to deal with minor clutch problems is a pain in the a**e.

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Peter

 

I've just fitted a 5.5inch AP clutch with sintered metal discs, what plates are you using? fibrous or sintered, paddle or full diameter?

 

Arnie

 

I've used a 7.5 inch AP clutch with titan hydraulic actuator and 0.7 inch master cylinder. I've never fitted a stop.

 

If the master cylinder diameter and stroke and the slave cylinder "bore" happens to be right then you physically cannot achieve more than the permissible slave cylinder stroke. I guess this is what happened to me and I was just lucky. I hope I remain lucky with the present 5.5 inch clutch - perhaps I need to do some sums.

 

Regarding bleeding - Having more room in the bellhousing than Peter I fitted a second -3 hose out of the bellhousing with a bleed nipple (made from a bulkhead hose end fitting tapped for a bleed nipple) on the end just out of the bellhousing. I never thought Peter's bleeding thro the feed hose would work. I'm pleased to be proved wrong though, taking engines in and out to deal with minor clutch problems is a pain in the a**e.

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Graham

 

The QM clutch uses full dia plates in a sintered material - but QM claim it is more resisitant to wear than AP's compounds.

 

I'm hoping the calculations I have done prove the same on the stroke of the slave cyl.

 

I too have loads of room in the bellhousing and I think the best option is to run a flex pipe out of the bellhousing to a convenient point.....

 

Peters idea can't be too maintenance friendly.......

 

 

 

Arnie Webb

Organiser- L7C Le Mans Trip

To book for this years Le Mans Trip see The Le Mans Trip Website

It really is very very very very full now!!!

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Arnie, I fitted the AP 5.5" clutch recently, and it's much easier to run a small hose out for bleediding purposes, mine terminates right next to the master cylinder for convenience. You may find that the pedal is very heavy and the clutch almost impossible to use in traffic. To get over this I fabricated a set of levers to actuate the master cylinder, which reduces the pedal effort and gives more pedal travel through the bite point. Its much easier to use now, if you have the same problem e-mail me and I'll send a picture.

 

MIKE.

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