Bananaman Posted June 19, 2003 Share Posted June 19, 2003 What would be involved in converting a 1.4 Supersport to a 1.8? Obviously the engine & Exhaust but what about engine mounts etc........? West is best!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted June 19, 2003 Share Posted June 19, 2003 Pretty sure you need a new engine but using the same mounts... someone will doubtless come along in a minute with chapter and verse. From 1.6 to 1.8 it simple... the crank has an extra 10mm throw and the conrods are that much shorter. JH Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 222bhp Sausage delivery machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted June 19, 2003 Share Posted June 19, 2003 Just done one. It isn't easy because it crosses a generational change in the engines. Depends on whether you try to retain the same ECU. It might cope, but it is a big jump in fuelling requirement, so various bodges have been used such as fuel pressure increases or different injectors. The way we did it was to source everything to bring the installation up to the later EU2 1.6/1.8 specification, so... If your engine has a criss cross pattern on the side it is the earlier "wet liner" type and you cannot change the internals to 1.8, which is hardly a loss because you can pick up 1.8 engines for not to much money. The belt spacing at the front is different so you need a different alternator. The flywheel has a different tooth pattern (and different depth as it turned out) New engine loom EU2 plastic plenum Engine mounts are the same Sump bolt sizes are not - you need a new set of M8 bolts for the sump New coil (completely different electrical load compared to the 1.4) New engine wiring loom - You can patch the connections into the car wiring loom relatively easily. An EU2 EC and matched 5AS immobiliser A new spigot bearing and sleeve You have to be prepared to grind bits off the block to get the starter motor to fit... etc. But that is the bulk of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted June 19, 2003 Share Posted June 19, 2003 when i heard you were converting one Peter I did wonder why - surely a erplacement 1.8K isn't expensive and the 1.4K you have left over is worth something to sell on. Alternatively - I would be tempted to change to only a 1.6 and then fit SS style cams later if / when funds allow. IMO the 1.8 isn't very nice until the head has been worked on. Others may (will disagree). HOOPY R706KGU Hoopylight R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted June 19, 2003 Share Posted June 19, 2003 Stu Forshaw has done it & I am sure will be along shortly.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted June 19, 2003 Share Posted June 19, 2003 Peter has fitted am 1.8 to replace a 1.4 Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted June 19, 2003 Leadership Team Share Posted June 19, 2003 I did the conversion slightly differently to Peter, following on from a conversion done by Andy Stoneley with some guidance from Dave Andrews, basically as follows: As Peter says there is a substantial generation step from the pre 96 1400s to the later 16/1800s, but there isn't any good reason why the pre'95 setup can't run perfectly well using the older configuration, ie. keep the loom, ecu, plugs, alternator, flywheel etc. In practice the only items you need are an 1800 bottom end and a set of 1800 (straw coloured) injectors. the Mems ecus have a high tolerance level - it's believed that the current 1600 and 1800 units are the same - and as long as you upgrade the fueling to suit the larger capacity, the mems unit won't even know it's an 1800. It doesn't really care either. I installed a complete bottom end comprising block, crank, rods & pistons, rebuilt courtesy of DVA. Also left the 1800 oil pump on the unit, although it's identical to the 1400 anyway so either would do. I used the 1400 head, flywheel, cams etc, and the alternator and bottom pulley. Fitted a Piper uprated timing belt. Left all the electrics exactly as they were, and fitted the bigger injectors. I fitted the AP race clutch but it is questionable whether it is necessary (your thoughts Peter?) Andy Stonely had problems with his original clutch slipping, but he's running a DVA modded head - 160 bhp ish. You'll need an 1800 half motor, top end gasket set (DVA - £65), conversion gasket set (DVA - £20), cam belt (£30), spigot bearing & bush (QED - £25), set of 1800 injectors (£50 s/h). Clutch if needed is approx £200. I recon the complete job will cost between £600 & £800 depending upon your initial engine outlay, and how much rebuild work you want to do to it. The key in keeping the cost down is to use the 1400 flywheel and hence the Rover 36/2 teeth pattern rather than the later 36/4 pattern. Lightweight flywheels available from Caterham for £100 inc.vat! Results were nothing short of awesome - wished I'd done it much sooner. Insurance premium didn't change either! E-mail me if you need any further comments. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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