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X-Flow & Oil


chrisb

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Hi,

Following a few blats around this week, I have noticed the following:

1. Driving around moderatly, ie upto 3.5K revs, everything pretty normal

2. Nail the throttle, and a decent oily smoke cloud is left in my wake.

3. Continued "rapid driving" and the level of smoke diminishes (Although a wisp or 2 remain)

4. On a trailing throttle at high revs, the smoke returns.

 

Oil consumption isn't too bad. However if I drive rapidly for extended periods, it needs approx 2 litres / tank of fuel.

 

I know x-flows use oil, but the smoke on a trailing throttle concerns me slightly.

 

The car has been recently fitted with a dry sump, and oil cooler. At the end of last year, the compression was tested (and found to be fine) whilst the head was converted to run on unleaded.

 

Any suggestions, ideas or they all do that sir comments would be appreciated,

 

Thanks

Chris

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white smoke on heavy gas pedal I think would indicate rings failing..

certainly most XF's do use some oil.. 2ltrs/tank of gas would appear excessive, I did about 2k miles last year inc' track days (Scandi2002) n hand to put in about 1-1,5ltr.

The engine only holds 3.75 ltrs.. so if you need to put in 2ltrs you are *way* below the 'fill' mark on the dipstick

 

sorry to sound all doomy n gloomy but I think its time for a rebuild

 

Chris

 

 

 

'Heigh Ho Me Hearties'

 

See my CAR here

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The smoke isn't so much white, as bluey grey.

 

As the car is dry sumped, there is no dipstick. I am going by looking in the remote oil tank, and topping up to the point that the oil is around the lower baffle plate (Witht he engine running). The remote tank hols approx 5 litres at this point. I have looked again, and it is only using about 1L per 2 tanks of fuel. The engine is relatively well tuned (approx 170bhp) and I only get about 100 miles to a tank of fuel (Rapid miles)

 

Is it time for a re-build? (The car has ~20K on it) The car has forged pistons / steel bottom end etc all done by RK a few years ago

 

There doesn't appear to be any loss of performance. RK quoted the engine to be 170bhp. After the head work the car was rolling roaded at John Noble. They gave me a graph showing 169bhp.

Chris

 

 

Edited by - chrisb on 16 Jun 2003 11:57:14

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Im sure one of the racers will be along in a min to correct me but are you supposed to measure the oil with the engine running or off... I though that when the engine was off some of the oil would drain back into the engine and so making it appear that the oil has been burned off, once the engine is started it collects again in teh tank... so over filling the tank would indeen over fill the engine which I thought could damage the engine.

prob totaly off the mark but WTH do I know *confused*

😬

sorry I couldnt be of more help

 

C.

 

 

'Heigh Ho Me Hearties'

 

See my CAR here

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Can a non Chris get on this thread?

 

It could be the valve guides / seals. The RKE pistons and rings are good ones.

 

That level of oil consumption / blue smoke is not normal.

 

If you valve guide seals, make sure they are not lifted from the head and just going up and down with the valve. Roger King can send you some new ones that kinda clip on.

 

The springs etc can be removed using the rope trick or compressed air to keep the valves in place while you pop the collets out etc.

 

A compression test and leak down test would identify the rings, if it is them...

 

About 0.5 - 1" below the plate you describe is the right oil level.

 

If you are near me I could diagnose it for you.

 

My racing pics, 7 DIY, race prep. Updated often here

Photo's of the year here

Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here

 

 

Edited by - stevefoster on 16 Jun 2003 13:44:29

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Steve,

Thanks for you help / suggestions. As I'm in Sheffield, getting to you might be quite difficult.

Is there any-one in the Sheffield region who could offer some advice?

 

Is it an easy job to check the valve guides / seals? If so how do I go about it?

 

I assume John Noble had to have the head apart to insert the hardened seats when it was converted to unleaded. Could it be possible something didn't quite go back together as it should have?

 

Any sugestions gratefully received, even those from non Chris's *tongue*

Thanks

 

Chris

 

 

 

 

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I would look at checking the method of checking oil on a dry sumped car.. speaking with Vinnie yesterday eve n we both thought that you needed to have the engine running whilst checking the oil level in hte tank.. but we wernt 100% sure

 

thats where I woud start

 

Chris

 

'Heigh Ho Me Hearties'

 

See my CAR here

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Can i ask what oil viscousity you are using? X-flows are very fussy about what oil they have in them. if your using fully synthetic oil of o-40, then it is possible that your engine tolerances are too great for this. From what you describe it is possible that the oil control rings are having trouble removing excess oil from the bores. Best bet is to have a compression test wet and dry, to assertain whether it is valve related, or piston related.

 

C7 PWT Pure Steel XE.

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mineral.. not Synth

Castrol 15/40 at least.. it cheap n not too bad... but Valvoline 10-or-15-or-20/50 maybe a better bet..

it depend on your engine n how old it is n how tightly it was built..

 

certainly most XFs shouldnt complain with 15/50 in them.. but you will notice higher oil pressures at all temps.. about 1bar @ hot idle - 4.5bar @ hot 3000rpm

2 bar @ cold idle - 5 bar @ cold 3000rpm

 

 

 

'Heigh Ho Me Hearties'

 

See my CAR here

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