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Stainless R500 Wheelnuts


Harry Flatters

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Can they do ali's ones?

 

I talked to Compomotive about this a while ago and they said they would if I provided a "sample" nut. And then I never got round to it.

 

Went through all the "will ali' ones be OK" stuff, and the std. ali' nuts (i.e. for normal wheels) work fine, so no reason to believe they wouldn't work in this application. Plus they are loads lighter...

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Mr Scuffnut,

 

One of the more severe failings of the existing R500 nuts has been them shearing off at the shoulder due to over tightening. The sleeve type design of the nut probably doesn't do us any favours here. My concern about doing an anodsied ali nut is that this failure could potentially be introduced even sooner because of over tightening.

 

Someone might tell me I'm talking cr*p here so I stand to be corrected. However, we will proceed with the s/s option initially but I will make further enquiries about the possibility of doing alloy ones.

 

*arrowright* *arrowright*Harry Flatters *arrowright* *arrowright* *thumbup*

AKA Steve Mell of Su77on Se7ens and Joint AO - Surrey

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Ah.

 

Wasn't aware of any R500 nuts failing in this way - have many actually happened?

 

Is it also known if this is more common with these nuts or whether normal ones are also prone to such failures - serious questions, not meaning to come over as a doubting wilbur etc.

 

Are the stainless ones stronger or are they simply not meant to rust (as I know the std ones do).

 

Ta for checking it out though.

 

 

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Ok chaps - I now have a price for the nuts. In either a natural or glass-blasted finish, the stainless steel R500 wheelnut will be £2.50 (plus postage). This compares with about £1.33 for the existing chrome version. There may also be a possibilty of getting them electro-polished, I will post a cost if and when it proves possible. Of course, there is nothing stopping you polishing your own nuts *confused*.

 

We have made a small change to the design of the nut to improve strength and reduce the chance of failure due to over-tightening. Essentially, where on the existing design, the sleeve section of the nut meets the hex section with a 90 degree angle (this is where the washer rests) we have introduced a small radius with a corresponding one in the washer.

 

For those still interested in having set of these s/s nuts, please mail me offline with the subject "Stainless Steel Wheelnuts". Please state how many nuts you require, what finish and where you want them delivered. Production should start in July with the first batch being turned around in a couple of weeks.

 

I shall contact you in due course with a manacing demand for money *wink*

 

*arrowright* *arrowright*Harry Flatters *arrowright* *arrowright* *thumbup*

AKA Steve Mell of Su77on Se7ens and Joint AO - Surrey

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an addendum here....

After 1000 miles since the wheels were last off i had a wheel almost come off on the A3 going to Le Mans.

 

There was a clunk, the wing flew off, then as i was braking (from 50 to zero) the rear end dropped a bit.

 

The facts are that One nut was very loosly on a stud, one was on half a stud in the road, the other two weren't obvious. The stud sheared flush with the mating surface, looked like a smooth fracture half way though then a rought fracture for the rest.

 

The guess is that 3 of the nuts were less tight than the other so they gradually worked lose but the other one held the wheel tightly in place. two of the nuts fell off. Then the stud sheared (gentle driving in a restricted speed area) leaving the wheel on three studs with no nuts doing anything. in short order the wheel came off the studs as far as possible given the nut hanging onto the end of the stud.

 

The carbon arched popped off during this and the plastic bolts sheared leaving slight bumps in the skin (easily tapped back in) and a crack in the wing.

 

So are the wheel nuts in any way to blame? I suspect its largely due to the slight (and it must be slight to survive 1000 miles) mistightening of the nuts - any thoughts?

 

Anyway - I'd like 16 nuts and washers please, in the most matt finish possible (black would be ideal).

 

I'll follow this up with a mail as requested.

 

Anyway - I got a mate to come out, we replaced the wheel stud and I did the rest of Le Mans. And with a passenger and luggage the new engine was suitably brisk but not actually scary *wink*

 

 

 

HOOPY

R706KGU Hoopylight R

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argh

the nightmare that is notes means I can't mail you from here for some reason - will try to remember from home.

 

PS Harry - you know I talked to you about SPA gauges a while back 🤔 I got the oil T / Oil P one to go with my new dry sump and engine. magic kit *smile*. Will get the fuel P / WaterT and Fuel Level / VOltage ones for Christmas I hope *smile* *thumbup*

 

HOOPY

R706KGU Hoopylight R

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