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Help - electrical diagram


Alex Rae

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Does anyone have an electronic copy of the electronics of a Caterham? After an unfortunate incident in an Inverness car park, I think the lights warning buzzer is a good idea! A mate can do the necessary work for the system, but wants to know more about how the car is wired up.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

AJ02RAE

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Be aware everyone that Caterham have an error on the diagram referenced above with respect to the sidelights.

 

The RHS sidelights are drawn connecting to a white wire which goes into fuse 10. This is WRONG. The wire from the RHS sidelights (red/white) should be drawn crossing over that white wire without connecting to it and connecting to fuse 6 to which is also connected a second red/white wire which goes off to the instrument illumination.

 

There is a second error I spotted, although not related to lights. The wire shown as black from pin 5 of the grey engine plug to the tacho is actually a black/blue wire. It is shown as such on the engine wiring diagram but is incorrectly coloured on the main wiring diagram. It's the shift light input to the tacho.

 

Chris

 

1.8K SV 140hp see it here

 

 

Edited by - Chris W on 7 Jun 2003 11:50:59

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Graham

 

You can't literally wire a buzzer between the brake light fuse and the sidelight fuse. Nothing will happen. You can however use these two fuses to indicate whether the lights are ON or OFF and whether the ignition is ON or OFF and feed them into a CHANGEOVER (ie: 5 terminal) relay and buzzer wired as my post the other night and pasted below for convenience.

 

(i) Connect one side of the coil of the relay to an ignition switched +12v source such that it only receives power when the ignition is ON. Connect the other side of the coil to earth. (Terminals 85 & 86, doesn't matter which way round)

 

(ii) Connect the common (30) terminal of the relay to the sidelights such that it receives power only when the sidelights are ON.

 

(iii) Connect the normally closed (n/c) terminal (87a) of the relay to the positive side of the buzzer and connect the negative side of the buzzer to earth.

 

There is nothing connected to the normally open (n/o) terminal (87) on the relay.

 

THAT'S IT.

 

(For the avoidance of doubt, a changeover relay has FIVE terminals not the four that you tend to use on most car circuits).

 

Chris

 

 

1.8K SV 140hp see it here

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Ford used to sell an all-in-one lights-on buzzer that you literally wired between the two fuses and used a sticky pad to glue it to the bulkhead - I fitted one to my first ever car for about £5. I believe that Halfords and several other companies still sell them.

 

I am sure that the one at the bottom of the page could be utilised somehow.

 

The logic on mine was based on the lights would provide the 12V+ which would have no potential difference to the brake fuse while the ignition was on, but with the ignition off the fuse would be isolated and therefore become an earth via the bulb hence sounding the buzzer. It may be better to take the switched input from Fuse 2 (instruments) as these are permanently armed with the ignition control feed. The current that the buzzer uses should not be sufficient to alter the meter readings and would only be present for the short time between turning off the ignition and turning off the lights.

 

Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

 

Edited by - Graham Sewell on 6 Jun 2003 08:46:36

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Graham

 

It won't work between the sidelights and the brake light fuses as you suggest because the brake light switch will isolate the route to earth through the bulb. You would need to wire one side of the buzzer to the "far" side of the brake switch... that would work.

 

However, your suggestion of wiring it between the sidelights fuse and the instruments fuse may work but it will depend on the impedance of the instruments to earth. In fact wiring it to the instruments is the only circuit that has a non-switched (other than through the ignition) route to earth.

 

Chris

 

1.8K SV 140hp see it here

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