Myles Posted June 1, 2003 Share Posted June 1, 2003 For the silver std. wipac headlights, is the main bulb fitting really H4? I opened mine up today - but couldn't find any marking on the bulb that was remotely close to any of the bulb types I've seen advertised... I saw H4 mentioned on another thread (lost it!) - but don't want to order the wrong thing. Second Q - is it acceptable to other road users to drive the 7 on dipped headlights during the day? I've had a couple of prats pulling out in front of me who might not have seen the weedy sidelights... Regds, Myles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted June 1, 2003 Share Posted June 1, 2003 AFAIK from mid/late 90s onward heard they're H4's. go to www.powerbulbs.com and get a set of the Philipa Blue Vision H4. they produce 85w/60w but only use 60w/45w. £ 22 gets a set of H4s AND free sidelights Steve 210Bhp Sinister Version-VHPD here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted June 1, 2003 Share Posted June 1, 2003 I have also just fitted Phillips Blue Vision bulbs which give a marked improvement over the standard bulb Mark D Su77on Se7ens Avoiding the Kerbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted June 1, 2003 Share Posted June 1, 2003 IMHO, driving with headlights on in daylight too is a DAMN good idea. I can't see why other road users would object and if they do - well ........... I'll leave you to finish that statement 😬 BRG SV 😬 aka Bug Killer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreK Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 Do as I (and most bikers also) so, use dipped headlights all the time. Shame that people may think that you're a Volvo or Saab! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Sewell Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 I always drive with dip beams on - in the Seven I am too small for most people to see (a bit like motorbikes) and my tin tip is grey - so a grey car on a grey day driving along grey tarmac - totally invisible unless I have headlights on. Also, the 'Roadcraft' book suggests that the driver should use dipped beams at all times when driving except on days of very good vision (clear blue skies, dry roads, etc). If it is good enough for the long arm of the law.... However, you do sometimes get well-meaning people advising you that you have left your lights on. Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New Barbie Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 I find the drain of the headlights on the alternator gives a noticeable dip in performance on my car. Personally, I just have a torch strapped to my head, even at night in order to give as much power as possible to going faster, not lighting the highway. Real men don't need headlights 😬 shrewdcookie - my site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris K Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 The reason why Volvo/Saabs etc have their lights on by degfault is thats is teh law over here in Scandi' to have you lights on at all times... even in midsummer when is doesnt get dark.. damm good idea IMHO... n I have only left the lights on once in the car park at work hence draining the battery.. .. Chris 'Heigh Ho Me Hearties' See my CAR here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian P Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 I'm a dipped-beam fan too, particularly having a black-all-over Seven. Replaced a blown bulb last summer - boggo H4 from Halfuds did the job... Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 3, 2003 Author Share Posted June 3, 2003 Thanks all - I've ordered the Phillips bulbs and will start dipped driving from now on. Q to Chris K though - I'm not sure if your comment about a warning buzzer was just a throwaway - but how would you wire it up? Would it be fairly simple to tack it into the ignition switch (a la tintop)? It's only a matter of time before I leave mine on and drain the battery... REgds, Myles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 Driving with headlights on at all times has been shown to give a more marked reduction in accidents than any other easily applied measure. The UK should follow Scandi. But its a bit of a bu&&er as I would need a new alternator to keep up with the power demands... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Wallace Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 I've been on the powerbulbs site and there are two types of bulb, the Philips blue vision bulbs and the Philips vision plus. Am I right in thinking that the blue vision bulb just mimics the blue light of the Xenon lights with out much extra light and the vision plus bulbs give 50% more light? Will the vision plus bulb draw more power? Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 Myles I made a warning buzzer for my lights. It buzzes if the ignition is turned OFF with the lights still ON. However, I have arranged it to do this only for about 15 secs as you may of course, for some reason, wish to have the lights ON with the ignition OFF, and the incessant buzzer would then drive you insane. The buzzer also isn't continuous. The brain is more alert to changes rather than anything continuous, so the buzzer buzzes in about 3 sec bursts for a total of about 15 secs (ie: 5 bursts). The electronics are fairly straightforward. The logic circuitry checks to see if there are volts on the light rail and on the output from the ignition switch and carries out the appropriate action depending on what it finds. The same circuitry with just a couple of small mods could also be used to warn you to switch your lights ON, a la discussion above about driving with lights on at all times. I have also designed and fitted a circuit to switch my lights ON automatically below a certain brightness. This saves a lot of hassle and even works in tunnels and through leafy glades. I have built in some safeguards as well to ensure it doesn't keep switching on and off every second as I drive along a tree-lined road with the sun coming through in spurts. In fact, in convoy last Sunday with the "Charge of the Light Brigade" blat to Belvoir Castle, AO Paul Marriott asked me to switch my lights on as the tail-end charlie in a group of five 7's. Because the lights are normally switched on automatically, I had to think for a couple of seconds where the normal light switch is positioned as I never use it. Chris 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 3, 2003 Author Share Posted June 3, 2003 Chris W, Hmm, fascinating. Not sure I'd want the automatic on thingy - but the buzzer sounds useful. Do you have a wiring diagram/component sheet available? Or better still, would you (or anyone else) be prepared to knock one up for cash/NTL donations? 😬 (Bags-I first in the Q if you do...) Being as I rarely (if ever) build electronics projects, I tend to find that the cost of obtaining the small number of components is prohibitive and time consuming - but if someone is a keen project builder (or works in that line), it might be a damned site easier... Regds, Myles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 stuart, i've installed (as have a number of others) the Blue Vision, and all i can say is bloody heck they're bright, and not Merc 'blue' -- they're very WHITE Steve 210Bhp Sinister Version-VHPD here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Wallace Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 Steve, Thanks for the reply. I'll get on and order them then. Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy the 7th Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 Just an 'ad lib' from this ........CALLING CHRIS W (reckon you got a photo of almost anything that moved last sunday @ Belvoir) have you got "C7 TNT" (dynamite) anywhere ??????? (roger.heeley@bt.com) Good idea about the light buzzer - what's the cct???? I've wired up an indicator buzzer that works a treat (2x diodes & a buzzer <£2.00) + 2 wraps of sticky tape over the buzzer to 'soften'the noise!!!! rog rog C7 TNT - North of Watford & South of Leeds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 I fitted some of the Bosch 'blue' type lamps to my Co BMW and they didn't last very long at all. This was about two years ago. Have they got better? Clamshell Club Founder Member. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted June 3, 2003 Share Posted June 3, 2003 Roger I've got you twice in the pub car park. If you let me know your email address, I'll send them to you. Edited cos I'm a prat and missed the fact you've already put your email address in the post above. The pictures are on their way. Chris 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 3 Jun 2003 20:32:12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted June 4, 2003 Share Posted June 4, 2003 Roger Re the lights buzzer. If you just want a simple buzzer that fires when the lights are ON and the ignition is OFF (without all the fancy extra bits I described above) then there are 2 fairly simple ways to achieve the functionality. You can use the same type of buzzer you used for the indicators. Method 1..... Use two changeover relays (they will have 5 terminals on them). On relay 1, wire one side of its coil to the sidelight switch so it receives power when the sidelights are ON and wire the other side of its coil to earth. On relay 2, wire one side of its coil to an ignition switched +12v such that it receives power only when the ignition is ON and wire the other side of its coil to earth. Now concentrate ........ as you need to wire up the relay output contacts in a particular way. (i) Wire the common contact on relay 1 to a permanent +12v source, eg: the live side of the lights switch. (This way you also use the sidelights fuse to protect this circuit as well). (ii) Wire the normally open (n/o) contact on relay 1 to the common contact on relay 2. (iii) Wire the normally closed (n/c) contact on relay 2 to the positive terminal of your buzzer. (iv) Wire the negative terminal of your buzzer to earth. THAT'S IT ... the buzzer will only sound if the lights are ON and the ignition is OFF. If the ignition is ON, the buzzer will never sound irrespective of what the lights are doing and conversely it will also never sound if the lights are OFF regardless of what the ignition is doing. On automotive relays the terminals are marked as follows to aid identification: coil = terminals 85 & 86 (doesn't matter which way round) common = 30 n/o = 87 n/c = 87a (You don't actually need automotive relays as the current in this circuit is so small but they're all much the same price as smaller relays and easy to source so what the heck). OK, Method 2....... This method doesn't use relays and is cheaper, but needs a somewhat better knowledge of electronics. You still use the same type of buzzer. You will also need a CMOS 4011B logic chip (quad 2 input NAND gate) and a general purpose PNP transistor. If you don't know what the hell I'm talking about, stop there and go to method 1. 😳 (i) Wire an ignition switched +12v source to a one of the NAND gates (let's call it gate 'a' )configured as an inverter (ie: its two inputs wired together). (ii) Wire the output of gate 'a' to one of the inputs of a second NAND gate (gate 'b'). (iii) Wire the other input of gate 'b' to the sidelights, such that it only receives power when the sidelights are ON. (iv) Wire the output of gate 'b' to the base of the PNP transistor. (v) Wire the collector of the transistor to earth. (Vi) Wire the positive of the buzzer to a permanent +12v source (eg: the live side of the sidelight switch) (vii) Wire the negative side of the buzzer to the emitter of the transistor. THAT'S IT for method 2. (Note: I don't know exactly which buzzer you are using, so it is conceivable that its impedance will be too high to allow sufficient base current to switch the transistor hard ON. If this is the case, simply wire a 5K to 10K resistor in parallel with the buzzer and all should be well). So Method 1 is easy but uses 2 relays. Method 2 is tiny but more complicated to wire together. I bet some clever sod will now come up with a method I didn't think of which is tiny, easy and cheap and embarrass the hell out of me. Well it's 2:00AM, so that's my excuse! Actually, I did think hard and I can't think of another simple way. The basic method used on tintops (eg: Halford kits) makes use of the fact that they have courtesy light switches in the door and they merely wire the buzzer between the light switch and the door switch... the door switch connecting to earth when the door is open thereby completing the circuit. But we don't like tintops Hope this helps.... Chris 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 4 Jun 2003 02:16:29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted June 4, 2003 Share Posted June 4, 2003 B*LLOCKS After all that, I just thought of a way of doing it with ONE changeover relay..... aaaargh!!!! (i) Connect one side of the coil of the relay to an ignition switched +12v source such that it only receives power when the ignition is ON. Connect the other side of the coil to earth. (Terminals 85 & 86, doesn't matter which way round) (ii) Connect the common (30) terminal of the relay to the sidelights such that it receives power only when the sidelights are ON. (iii) Connect the normally closed (n/c) terminal (87a) of the relay to the positive side of the buzzer and connect the negative side of the buzzer to earth. There is nothing connected to the normally open (n/o) terminal (87) on the relay. THAT'S IT........... God I hope nobody read my post above, built it and then discovered they could have done it in half the time and half the cost. That's as simple as it gets now............. unless some clever sod knows better. Anyway go for this method, one changeover relay and a buzzer. (For the avoidance of doubt, a changeover relay has FIVE terminals not the four that you tend to use on most car circuits). Time to go to bed.... my brain hurts 😬 Chris 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 4 Jun 2003 02:53:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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