fordy Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 my 1995 owner guide states 4 litres oil fill but does tell you to check when running. I put a 4 litre pack of Mobile 1 in but it still runs about mid-way between min and max with engine running. I'd best check the calibration of my dipstick by comparing with the old Caterham plastic broken one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 Thanks Len - a definitive answer at last ! Why oh why do some people not listen when an expert gives the reason 🤔 BRG SV 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 15, 2003 Leadership Team Share Posted May 15, 2003 Fordy - you're going 1800 anyway - don't bottle it now. Lot of work taking it out to put another 1400 in Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 As a newcomer to this game, I have read this thread with great interest. Until now I thought checking the oil was a simple process, but now something about camels and committees spring to mind 1994 1.4 SS wet sump no additional oil 'goodies'. The dip stick is a long thin wire with a yellow handle and yellow plastic end. The latter has a cross hatched area on it. No notch. I have a March 2003 Caterham invoice from a previous owner for a new dip stick '446mm Modified'. Until today I have checked the oil cold and kept the level at the top of the cross hatched area. I have also today checked it hot and running and to my horror no oil shows on the dipstick. 😳 The car runs well and no evidence of oil surge on right hand bends (but I probably haven't owned the car long enough to put it at risk of oil surge) I have understood the reasons above about why the oil should be checked hot and running. Do I have the correct dipstick? If so, to what level should the oil be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 EM in Wales I've always followed the manual which came with my factory-built car in February which is identical to Len's advice. (I have the same dipstick as you)................. which is to the top of the hatched area with the engine hot & running. Now watch for a dozen other answers again Chris 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 Chris Thanks for the response. I need to add some oil! EM in W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordy Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 I checked the level on my old broken plastic Caterham 'calibrated' dipstick versus my new Rover metal dipstick. The Caterham calibration notch is almost an inch higher than the top crosshatch marking on a standard rover dipstick. Guess that might have something to do with my knackered engine then. Stu, you're right. But the 1.8 project was meant to be a winter project, not a middle of the summer during best blatting weather project. I'm weighing up options and hope I can get an easy fix to get back on the road ASAP. If it turns out to be an engine out job however then biting the bullet and bringing the 1.8 project forward will have to be done. I just didn't want to rush things though. I have an oil analysis on the way to see if I've run a big end or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McCulloch Posted May 17, 2003 Author Share Posted May 17, 2003 The level notch on my metal wire dipstick (1998 model) is 413mm from the lip on the "handle" which sits against the top of the dipstick tube (if that makes sense!). Fordy (or anyone else) - can you measure your old broken dipstick to give me the distance to put a new mark on mine where the level should be with the engine hot and running. Thanks Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordy Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 unfortunately the engine is not running at the moment so can't check with it running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beegee Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 So what do Caterham say is the capacity when doing a change of oil. As I see it if that ammount is put in when the sump is empty, then where it shows on the dipstick is the level. Or am I making it too simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beegee Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 So, what do Caterham say is the sump capacity for the engine. In other words, how much oil do you put in when you do a change. Once that is known, then where it shows on the dipstick (engine cold) is the level. Or am I making it too simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lennie Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 If you have an apollo then how long you wait gives you a different reading so checking between sessions on a track day is a bit hit and miss also even a standard car takes some time for the oil to drain, a vvc dipstick would also be different. My original thinking was one dipstick one method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 If you have an apollo then how long you wait gives you a different reading Which is one reason why quite a few Apollo users (me included) have installed a one-way valve in the air return line. (The other reason, of course, is to have "instant" oil pressure on start-up.) JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 Can't say I have noticed any delay in getting oil pressure with an apollo. Never left it for more than a week though. Just how long does it take to drain back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 I don't know for sure, Mr L, but with hot oil, I guess it can't take more than a minute or so. I used to get a delay of about four seconds on start-up before the oil gauge registered pressure. In other words, it took that long to fill the Apollo. Certainly, with the one-way valve, I find checking the oil level (using Len's method) simpler and more consistent (especially on track days). JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Board Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 I agree with the K series dipstick being a t**t to read . I have a new Xpower(K series) with yellow plastic tipped dipstick. However I have found a way that works for me and complies with Caterhams instructions to check with the engine running. Once hot pull dipstick out and wipe really clean and dry. Quickly push the dipstick in and pull out IMMEDIATLEY, the hold perfectly level. This is done with the crosses on the dipstick facing the gearbox. Hey presto a good clean reading. Only reason I found out is that after about 20 goes trying to get a good level when I first had the car I lost my bloody rag and rammed the dipstick in and out, and to my surprise got a good indication. I think a lot of the time if your are a bit slow pulling the dipstick out it picks up oil from the bottom of the dipstick housing tube and becomes impossible to read. Since adopting this method have had NO trouble what so ever in reading the oil, but when its clean oil you do have to look closely at the hatched crosses to see where the oil lies .Now waiting for someone to shoot me down in a shower of you know what 😬 Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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