Corrosion [W]

[SvenDriver]

Had a look around the car before Stoneleigh. The rear A frame is suffering a bit and so are the front springs. Maybe a FAQ but after only a few rainy days and despite waxoy this seems to have all come about rather fast!!!

 

I've bought some hammerite (smooth, not satin) and waxoyl and some waxoyl underbody seal.

 

My plan is:

1. Hammerite the A frame, the front wishbones and maybe the front springs.

2. Apply the seal stuff to the A frame (it seems to suffer).

3. Waxoyl as much else as possible but not the front wishbones or springs.

 

Is this a sensible plan?

 

Why oh Why don't Caterham/Arch stove ennamel rather than powedercoat. I've had bicycles stove ennammelled and they survive harsh all-year running for decades.

[ChrisC]

Hi SvenDriver

 

Had the same problem, which I solved last year with a strip and paint. The A frame, dedion tube, radius arms, and roll bar all went back to Arch to be re-powder coated. The chassis was stripped, and painted using black enamel. It all looks like new, and cost less than £100 .

 

I don't recommend hammerite, because it has a very soft finish.

 

 

 

Chris....

H15 SVN Get it !

[Bricol]

hmmm - powder-coating done correctly like a certain maufacurer of plastic ones somewhere in the midlands does, or at leat the coating on my old one anyway, is pretty damn good. Took an angle grinder to get through it when i wanted to add a few brackets. Admittedly, when it does get punctured, corrosion can creep along underneath unseen - so keep looking.

 

I would suggest that you find your local shotblasters/power-coaters and get the items stripped (may need alternative to blasting if stuff left on is any good) and get them re-done when they next do a run of black for a few quid.

 

As for Hammerite - i find it too hard - it chips off too easily.

 

But most admit to being worried about Caterham coating after looking at second hand cars corroding away so i gave mine a good Waxoyling just about everywhere - after use in all weathers - sun, rain(lots of rain!), snow, salt, more salt, and leaving it outside 'cos there's normally a defunct car blocking the garage, it seems to be holding up fine - couple of spots of rust noticed on a rear radius arm when I was altering it from "comfort" to "handling".

 

Bri

[I reply to every thread]

Bricol is right about Hammerite - chips too easily. If you're going to paint use POR 15 from Frosts. I painted the suspension on my Midget with it 9 years ago & It's still there. Just don't get it on your hands. You need laser treatment to get it off afterwards

[aclucas]

The POR 15 on my hands lasted about a week, even with scrubbing, there's probably still some under my nails. Brilliant stuff though, you can get it from Frost through the post. Get some rubber gloves to wear as well.

 

N7CTR 1.8VVC

 

[Julian Bradley]

I have a 1990 supersprint, and have sanded, hammerited and waxoyled the suspension, front and rear, and now keep a close eye on rust (no signs of it reappearing).

 

But can the tubes rust from the inside? How long do sevens last? I don't plan to change chassis, but might sneak a zetec in when my wife isn't looking.

[I.Mupferit]

Hmmmm, I have always had good results with the Hammerite satin black. I think the secret is in the proper preparation of the surface to be painted.

 

I repainted parts of my chassis about 5 years ago, when it was 1 year old and the powder coating had just peeled off, and on this winters stripdown it still all looks as good as when I did it.

 

Admittedly, it also has a Waxoyl coating but I have used the Hammerite on other cars over the years (and wrought iron gates) and have the highest regard for it.

 

I'm sure there is better stuff around but at least the Hammerite is easily obtainable, easy to apply and relatively cheap.

 

Brent

7 back together and almost a runner 😬