Distributor (Lucas 43 D) clamp loss ANS: Yes and now extensive d.i.y. KNOCK SENSOR discussion (kit ordered)

[anthony1956]

Sounds like an early Apollo idea

[OldAndrewE]

3 hours ago, anthony1956 said:

Sounds like an early Apollo idea

Not really, as I understand it the Apollo is to get the air out of the oil.  This is to get the oil out of the air before it is sent to atmosphere (or catch tank now)

[anthony1956]

We have sorted the VDO part number in this thread so I have asked VDO if they can supply one with a remote, non block, mounting kit.

Now I see what you mean I think about a crack; it looks gruesome, note the nice red shape round it, but no text yet, happy to say it's not even a seam it's a shadow.

 

Edited Monday at 17:55 by anthony1956

[Gridgway]

that's not a shadow!  Isn't it just where the plate ends?  Assuming you mean what's inside the red rectangle .

[OldAndrewE]

32 minutes ago, anthony1956 said:

Now I see what you mean I think about a crack; it looks gruesome, note the nice red shape round it, but no text yet, happy to say it's not even a seam it's a shadow.

 

I was thinking more about the areas ringed although I just think it is the joint where the block is bolted to the plate

I think the next thing to do is undo the bolt fixing the fitting to the block and see what you have got

[anthony1956]

5 minutes ago, OldAndrewE said:

I think the next thing to do is undo the bolt fixing the fitting to the block and see what you have got

yes made me laugh, read my mind - wanted to ask you first if the thread is blind? Doesn't go anywhere?

You can imagine how hard it is spannering down there with everything in place; the backs of my hands feel like they have been through a shredder

yes the white rings are just edges.

Edited Monday at 18:38 by anthony1956

[OldAndrewE]

The threaded hole is blind, it is just to allow something to be bolted to the block.  If it is still the original thread it should be 7/16" AF (11 mm may do it but that is slightly smaller than 7/16")

[anthony1956]

ok be back shortly

[Gridgway]

8 minutes ago, OldAndrewE said:

11 mm may do it but that is slightly smaller than 7/16

Now we're not going to have any of that sort of talk on here.  An 11mm will most certainly not do!  A 7/6 nut needs a 7/16 spanner! 🤣

Edited Monday at 18:47 by Gridgway

[OldAndrewE]

1 minute ago, Gridgway said:

Now we're not going to have any of that sort of talk on here.  An 11mm will most certainly not do!  A 7/6 nut needs a 7/16 spanner! 🤣

Yes, quite agree.  Don't know what I was thinking 😱

[anthony1956]

Well, a 7/16 socket was a very tight fit, bit of corrosion around the edges, but nicely off. Was soon finger loose. 

 

so it's just a plate that comes off - the oil feed is still attached

Edited Monday at 18:56 by anthony1956

[anthony1956]

We'll see what VDO come back with. @rkeywood has pointed me to Merlin Motorsport, who are UK based. Right now I am wondering why I don't simply bolt the knock sensor in to the 5/16 hole (longer bolt of course) with a spacer for the 8mm bit. I gather the knock sensor is simply a microphone. 

Edited Monday at 19:53 by anthony1956

[OldAndrewE]

11 minutes ago, anthony1956 said:

Right now I am wondering why I don't simply bolt the knock sensor in to the 5/16 hole (longer bolt of course) with a spacer for the 8mm bit. I gather the knock sensor is simply a microphone. 

Are you talking about the bolt you have just undone with a 7/16 spanner?  If so it must be 1/4" surely.  A 5/16" would have been a 1/2" spanner.  Is the threaded boss you have uncovered a machined flat surface?

[anthony1956]

just a sec, pic coming up.... I THINK that's a "yes"

Edited Monday at 20:50 by anthony1956

[anthony1956]

46 minutes ago, OldAndrewE said:

Are you talking about the bolt you have just undone with a 7/16 spanner? 

Yes.

 

ok I got confused here, the 8mm hole in the sender compares to a 7/16" head usually has a 1/4" shank, 6.35 mm, leaving 1.65mm space to properly fill. Back to the drop down stud maybe. This time the other way around. Or I suppose tap out the difference to 8mm - is that easy to do?

 

Edited Monday at 20:55 by anthony1956

[OldAndrewE]

So 1/4" UNC by the look of it

[anthony1956]

Yes.

[anthony1956]

I suppose I could use a 1/4" UNC bolt and simply fill the extra space in the eye through the device with some sort of suitable filler.

I have asked the manufacturer. 

These examples (2) look simple enough (not from the manufacturer)

Edited Tuesday at 10:18 by anthony1956

[Gridgway]

26 minutes ago, anthony1956 said:

I suppose I could use a 1/4" UNC bolt and simply fill the extra space in the eye through the device with some sort of suitable filler

If you did, I'd not talk to you again!  Filler has as much useful application in this as using an 11mm spanner on a 7/8 nut!!!

[anthony1956]

ok so how to deal with the space discrepancy?

[OldAndrewE]

I suppose so.  The main thing will be to get clean, firm contact between the face of the sensor and the block surface. To fill the gap I would use a tube, 8 mm OD and 1/4" hole. Needs to be slightly shorter than the sensor so you know you are clamping the sensor, not the tube

[anthony1956]

that sounds like a visit to my local metal bashers

that said they could equally die an 8m down to 1/4" UNC - IN Fact an 8mm blank with unc on the end.

Edited Tuesday at 10:39 by anthony1956

[Gridgway]

This needs a simple solution.  Just a spacer as Andrew suggested.  It probably works just fine without, but I would make one.

[anthony1956]

Just a sec. Given the device itself is plastic, why can I not fill the hole with plastic, then drill it to use a 1/4" UNF?

with a suitably large washer.

Edited Tuesday at 19:49 by anthony1956

[OldAndrewE]

Is the brass/gold coloured bit plastic then?  

I assumed it was metal

Edited Tuesday at 19:55 by OldAndrewE