Distributor (Lucas 43 D) clamp loss ANS: Yes and now extensive d.i.y. KNOCK SENSOR discussion (kit ordered)

[anthony1956]

here's a couple of diy examples: 

I suppose the fixing bolt which is usually M8 or M10 I think, itself also acts as part of the vibration / noise detection system. There are I seem to recall various holes in my block, whether suitable I do not know at this time.

Edited September 20 by anthony1956

[Gridgway]

I think I've finally lost the plot.  BD motors run very happily on dizzy ignition with a mechanical advance curve.  My BDG produces 293 bhp very simply.

So adding knock sensors, tuning with gas analysers is just adding unnecessary complication that is (in my view) extremely unlikely to produce a nice reliable smooth running result.

Good luck with it, but please try to get a simple solution running!

[anthony1956]

We needed the gas analyser to set her up for the government emissions test, which I am pleased to say we passed the other day, so that's now back in it's storage bag.

"simply" what's really causing the non simply trouble, we think, is the dizzy clamp no longer reliably clamps the dizzy so every time we get a nice smooth engine, by the next day it's gone again. A new clamp is on order and in the post. Can't say I see the clamp as a complex matter - although fitting it you have already covered; that's not simple if one has never done it before.

I bet your BDG has bits my BDR does not - and they won't be simple.

Of course once it's all fixed, the solution will be simple. It's just a basic carb based old car.

The knock sensor is because I am sick and tired of all the unhelpful fear mongering (fear mongering without anything helpful). To be honest. Whether it turns out I can use it remains to be seen. I fixed the cooling system, which was also supposed to be impossible. This is just another impossibility. 

When I want some fun I just go for a run in the R500.

Please do stay around!

 

Edited September 20 by anthony1956

[anthony1956]

11 hours ago, Gridgway said:

just adding unnecessary complication

of course there is a hidden ingredient in all this, I LIKE complications.

[anthony1956]

complicated

[anthony1956]

I now simply carry my strobe timing light with me and don't do up the nose's lower two dzuz screws - too much bending.

When the new clamp arrives we will see what we will see. In the mean time I am running more ignition advance so it will start etc though it still looks the same as it did @revilla on the sprockets, it's just that having learned how the digital numbers work on the "gun" I can see more accurately. Had a very nice short run out today.

Edited Saturday at 21:45 by anthony1956

[anthony1956]

On 20/09/2024 at 23:08, OldAndrewE said:

What I am interested in is how you are going to fix it to the block.  All the knock sensors I have seen are firmly bolted to a special flat section of the block to give full block/sensor contact

So to choose a spot:

 

[OldAndrewE]

Do you have a pic of the other side, can't see anywhere suitable on that pic.

[anthony1956]

[anthony1956]

I've been wondering how one tests such a device: presumably one has to generate a knock. Though as I understand it one knock does not an engine break - otherwise it would be a broken engine sensor.

[anthony1956]

While I am also wondering what this piece is: Ans VDO Oil Pressure Sender

it seems odd the space behind it is not painted (which paint is Hammerite by me in 2012) so I have long forgotten.

sorry this is now a duplicate post where I ask the same question about the white space.

Edited Sunday at 10:03 by anthony1956

[OldAndrewE]

I have circled the only possibility I can see. I expect you will need to clamp the sensor with an M8 bolt and one thing that hole will not be is M8 (if it is tapped it looks bigger).  You may need to get a special stud made

[anthony1956]

even has a flat surface as it ready for a listening device. I'm going to have a look now.

 

[anthony1956]

[OldAndrewE]

Can't see from that, is the hole tapped?

[anthony1956]

 

I’ve tried every bolt in my garage: maybe it needs cleaning out. 

Edited Sunday at 11:25 by anthony1956

[OldAndrewE]

It is either going to be UNF or more likely UNC - 3/8"?

[anthony1956]

Yes I reckon UNC .. 11mm close fit but not

Is this 5/16 ? Internal thread diameter

Edited Sunday at 11:46 by anthony1956

[OldAndrewE]

I assume that measurement is the minor diameter of the thread, that is consistent with 3/8" UNC. 

[anthony1956]

Yes.

 

yes that's what you said, I think, I put the micro measure inside the thread, so yes not the external diameter of the bolt but the internal, which I gather is the "minor" diameter. Is the external diameter called the major one?  

Edited Sunday at 15:33 by anthony1956

[Jonathan Kay]

7 minutes ago, anthony1956 said:

Is the external diameter called the major one?  

Nomenclature of thread dimensions.

Jonathan

[anthony1956]

'ere we go 

Hang on.. where's D ? 

 

Edited Sunday at 15:31 by anthony1956

[anthony1956]

So given the sensors usually have M8 or M10 Bolts, or Bolt Holes.. 

• Quote

   

  • M8 is slightly smaller in diameter compared to a 3/8 UNC bolt, with the M8 being about 8 mm (~0.315 inches) versus 9.525 mm (~0.375 inches) for the 3/8 bolt.
  • M10 is slightly larger in diameter than the 3/8 UNC bolt, with 10 mm (~0.394 inches) compared to 9.525 mm.

   

   

Edited Sunday at 15:36 by anthony1956

[Jonathan Kay]

6 minutes ago, anthony1956 said:

.. where's D ? 

D = 2 x (D/2)

Jonathan

[anthony1956]

Here's the sensor, that hole is 8mm. I have asked the manufacturers if we can drill out 1.525mm for a 3/8 bolt.

if not.. a stud 3/8" UNC one end and M8 the other? Or a dual-threaded or step-down stud 3/8 to M8 like my Carb mounting studs

 

Edited Sunday at 16:01 by anthony1956