Distributor (Lucas 43 D) clamp loss ANS: Yes and now extensive d.i.y. KNOCK SENSOR discussion (kit ordered)

[anthony1956]

yes as far as I can see.. better go have another look, back soon

would not wish to upset any engineers..

 

 

Note if relevant

Quote

J-B Weld Adhesive is an excellent choice for filling a hole in plastic, as it bonds well with various materials, including plastic. It forms a strong, durable bond and can be sanded and drilled after curing. The key advantage is that it hardens to a tough, machinable material, making it ideal for your situation where you'll be re-drilling the filled hole for a 1/4" UNC thread. Be sure to allow the epoxy ample curing time before drilling for best results.

 

Edited September 24 by anthony1956

[anthony1956]

ok! I have to find what I have ordered, absolutely see what you mean; much happier if it is metal.

[anthony1956]

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/link-engine-management-knock-sensor-2016181/

versus your example, where's that from? Looks much better here:

Edited September 24 by anthony1956

[ScottR400D]

The cores will be brass, it doesn’t damp out vibration so perfect for a ‘listening’ device. 

[OldAndrewE]

15 minutes ago, anthony1956 said:

versus your example, where's that from? 

 

That is the underside of a Bosch unit just doing a Google search for knock sensor

[anthony1956]

is that  yay or nay (or abstain) to using a filler I can drill? (mine is the first image not the metal second)

"‘listening’ device." YesI am hoping I can even listen with a headset on occasion.

Now I have sensor envy that Bosch version looks the business.

Edited September 24 by anthony1956

[OldAndrewE]

1 minute ago, anthony1956 said:

is that  yay or nay (or abstain) to using a filler I can drill?

I would be happier with a metal (brass?) tube

[anthony1956]

aye and brass sounds like the right stuff

I'll see what my metal bashers can (are willing to) do 

must say, I like watching them work, they manipulate metal like it is play doh 

actually I find it wiser to give them the problem rather than the solution, but I can specify the material must be brass.

(Accountant coming up with engineering solution? Nah. 🙂     )

Edited September 24 by anthony1956

[anthony1956]

another message from the manufacturer:

my question was:

must say I'd rather fill it with something, even if just rubber.

Edited September 24 by anthony1956

[ScottR400D]

1 minute ago, anthony1956 said:

another message from the manufacturer:

That makes sense, even if it goes against the grain!

I wouldn’t put plastic in there, it’ll likely compromise the ability to transmit the vibrations. 

[anthony1956]

okay.. I suppose I should do what the manufacturer says. .. which is pretty much nothing, though I was just looking for a reverse countersunk washer 😉

Quote

compromise the ability to transmit the vibrations. 

oh duh, of course.

Edited September 24 by anthony1956

[anthony1956]

and the torque setting for the sensor is:

 

Simon (Link ECU)  Sep 24, 2024, 21:46 UTC  Fastening torque 20 ± 5 Nm Regards Simon Senior Technical Support Specialist

[OldAndrewE]

11 hours ago, anthony1956 said:

and the torque setting for the sensor is:

 

 

Simon (Link ECU)  Sep 24, 2024, 21:46 UTC  Fastening torque 20 ± 5 Nm Regards Simon Senior Technical Support Specialist

Not sure I would want to do a 1/4 UNC up that tight, certainly not the upper part of that range.  Obviously depends on the grade of bolt you get

[anthony1956]

okay.. happy to be advised, what might be an improvement?

 

[OldAndrewE]

OK, so attached is a table that came with one of my torque wrenches many years ago, excuse all the oily finger prints.

It is in imperial figures and as you can see there is quite a range depending on what grade bolt you have.  I suggest see what bolts you can get and then make a judgement.  The highest grade of bolt on that table just about makes the figure quoted by your supplier

Torque figures.pdf

[ScottR400D]

13 minutes ago, OldAndrewE said:

OK, so attached is a table that came with one of my torque wrenches many years ago, excuse all the oily finger prints.

It is in imperial figures and as you can see there is quite a range depending on what grade bolt you have.  I suggest see what bolts you can get and then make a judgement.  The highest grade of bolt on that table just about makes the figure quoted by your supplier

Torque figures.pdf 2.31 MB · 3 downloads

The highest recommended I can find for an M6 (12.9 grade bolt) is 19Nm, about 14lb ft. 

[OldAndrewE]

6 minutes ago, ScottR400D said:

The highest recommended I can find for an M6 (12.9 grade bolt) is 19Nm, about 14lb ft. 

Yes, similar figures to the highest grade in the table I posted. Anthony's supplier gave a range of 15 to 25 Nm which is probably suitable for the M8 that would normally be used on that sensor

[ScottR400D]

4 minutes ago, OldAndrewE said:

Yes, similar figures to the highest grade in the table I posted. Anthony's supplier gave a range of 15 to 25 Nm which is probably suitable for the M8 that would normally be used on that sensor

I looked at your table but the 1/4” line was redacted?

[Miker7]

please don't forget its not just the bolt - the block has to withstand the torque or you'll be putting through it.

[OldAndrewE]

6 minutes ago, ScottR400D said:

I looked at your table but the 1/4” line was redacted?

 

That is unfortunate, on my original file it is just highlighted 🤬.  Original scan attached below

Torque figures001.pdf

[anthony1956]

Thanks looks very useful.

[Gridgway]

I think I may well end up being the dull keep it simple person in this thread.  The torque is extremely unlikely to be related  specifically to the (audio) properties of the device.  So I'd be doing it QT for a 1/4" bolt with a spanner and that would almost certainly do the trick!

Graham

Just in case - tightness goes:

QT means quite tight

T means tight

FT means very tight.

[OldAndrewE]

Quite agree Graham, I am all for doing non-critical items up by 'feel'.  I was trying to avoid Anthony trying to do it up to the torque quoted by the supplier and ending up with the problem of getting the remains of the bolt out of the block

[Gridgway]

That is definitely a good problem to avoid Andrew!

[anthony1956]

Thanks for your concern chaps, it is highly unlikely I would have done it up beyond QT regardless. Threadlock 243 i.i.r.c.  if it seems a good idea at the time.