Lifting Points For Higher Lift

[Rasta7]

I need to raise my car high enough to get fully under it. I have access to a lift but it's not a drive onto model. It's the type that lifts "normal" cars by their jacking points / sills. Can I lift the car with this in any way? Are there any other lifting points other than the ones you would use for normal jacking up? I wondered if it was possible to lift the car by it's outer chassis rails running down the side between front and rear wheels? 

[lapsedtheorist]

Oakmere use a big two-post lift with four arms when they’ve done work on my car… so you should be OK I would have thought. They have one of the arms just behind the front wishbone and the other at the very back of the floor under the drivers seat… and it seems to work

[Drumster]

I have a scissor lift with 4 arms; front 2 are under the rear lower wishbone mount and the rears as mentioned above. It very often stays on the lift over the winter whisltI gradually service it and all seems ok.

[Golf Juliet Tango]

Lots of garages will lift a Seven on a two post lift. It isn't a problem in the slightest.

[Rasta7]

Thanks everyone, question answered. Just needed to know where to lift from. 

[Jonathan Kay]

There's a recent thread about where to lift Sevens and support assemblies which help.... 

Jonathan

[Dan R]

Is the alternative rear lifting point'at the very back of the floor under the drivers seat' still feasable with lowered floor? or with just one lowered floor? 

[CAT170]

Yes, okay for lowered floor cars. Cropped photos attached from a builder's Open Day at Gatwick a couple of years ago. This lowered floor car was built at Gatwick and was being inspected. Note that large, clean rubber pads used.

[Nigel Blandin]

I’ve got lowered floors and have no problems with my lift. The rear pads go under the front A frame bushes and, if I want to work on those I move the forward and put a short scaffold board under the floors. No problems…

Well, there is one problem.

When you have a lift, the default position for a Seven is on it and you are a fiddling’ and a fettling’ all the time! 

Edited 20 hours ago by Nigel Blandin

[Miker7]

crikey - your garage is bigger than my house #jealous

 

I'm not an expert on this, but if i was jacking on the lowered floor (Which seems wrong to me generally) i'd be trying to get the pad under the corner, you've then got a corner with aluminium in three directions so unlikely to bend which i'd assume is stronger than a general thin floor area which might flex. 

[Nigel Blandin]

Yeah, good sized old barn and a lot of recycling and weekends!

I normally avoid the floor altogether, but to access the front A frame mounts you sort of have to go there. By spreading the load with a board across the whole car the point load is very small- remember, there is very little weight at the back of an empty Seven.

[aerobod - near CYYC]

6 minutes ago, Nigel Blandin said:

remember, there is very little weight at the back of an empty Seven.

My R400D has around 50% of it's weight on the rear wheels when empty, 54% with a 75kg driver and half a tank of fuel.

[Nigel Blandin]

50% of not a lot is quite a bit less…

I put the front pads just behind the mountings. If the rear ones are just in front of the front A frame brackets, across both floors ( which are folded and rigidly attached) under a 250mm wide scaffold board, 35mm thick there is no creaking or deformation when lifting…I can lift it clear of the board from the rear tube easily to reposition it, so it isn’t that heavy.

Like I said, the rear pads are normally under the front brackets, so if and only if you need to work on them, as I did last week do I take this course of action.
When at Snetterton the week before I went over the kerb before the bombhole and walloped the floor under my ass with no ill effects to me or the floor- I am happy it can take it.