BDR How to release the accelerator without removing the split pin? And closing the butterflies for tuning. Solved

[anthony1956]

The process for setting my carbs includes releasing the accelerator cable so as to be sure it is not having any influence on the butterflies, which we want 100% closed without any doubt.

Doing this once is fine, but I am getting worried the split pin will break when I remove and refit it too many times. 

So I am looking for ideas how to release the cable without undoing the split pin OR how to connect the cable with no split pin. EDIT: a circle thing..? a shackle pin..

Edit: the other end is the same, metal to be bent that I already broke after bending it just once - it was old and has a new one, but even so.

On the usual postage stamp please (do these still exist?)

Anthony

 

of course there's no substitute for doing it right in the first place.. 

Edited Sunday at 20:53 by anthony1956

[OldAndrewE]

28 minutes ago, anthonym said:

On the usual postage stamp please (do these still exist?)

Yes they do still exist and are quite expensive now, unlike a new split pin (sorry!)

[anthony1956]

I found a couple of ideas - surprised to find I still have a self locking shackle pin.. the paper clip, why ever not?

 

Quote

unlike a new split pin

yes quite right; it's the availability over here that's dreadful. A dozen will be fine.. having said that the trombone (French for paper clip) is so easy why not?

Edited Thursday at 14:40 by anthonym

[anthony1956]

I just discovered (thanks 7wow) that the butterflies on No 2 are not fully closed even when the balance screw is "off" and the accelerator cable released - or is it, I need to check that "release" b r b yes even with accelerator cable totally released the butterflies can be pushed more closed, though it is the balance adjusting mechanism holding them "open" that bit, by the looks of it. I say this because I'm sure I recall checking this when they were off the car. How to adjust the base position of the balancing mechanism... ?  exploring

Edited Thursday at 14:50 by anthonym

[anthony1956]

So, can't figure out if it is possible or even desirable to adjust the spindle to linkage aspect, so I have "cheated" in that while the balance adjusting screw is supposed to be fully released, I can screw it in and hold it where it holds the rear butterflies shut while not affecting the front carb. Thus the Manometer readings still suggest (a bit) more air is being allowed in to the front carb, although it now responds to changes of the mixture and air compensation. I did test (squirt) cold start everywhere, a little only each time and no engine response at all. So whatever, if anything, is leaking air, I haven't found it, yet. Maybe I should tighten all the carb mounting nuts by one turn and see if that does anything. 

Anyway, its six degrees C here and the car is not getting to operating temperature so while I can get "legal" emissions it seems like a waste of time for now. I also seem to recall the best readings were at 85C. Also I have increased the idle target rpm to 1,000 from 950 as the engine runs better and just seems happier. Far as I know this is acceptable for the test. It's quite frustrating as before all this happened, so a few weeks ago I had way better readings - but at 85c.

So we need warmer weather (which is forecast) or dry roads and no rain to get to operating temp.

[anthony1956]

warmer weather today and I am using a trombone to hold the cable; first time out it fell off.(!!) Second time I sort of knotted it and it stayed on.