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Misfire K Series


Orange

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Belt appears tight and no noises so assume not slipping (and looks to be good condition) I have taken readings at the alternator and battery and results are the same.

it would have been nice if it were a cheaper fix!

i have not checked the smaller wire to the alternator. How do I check this and would that alter the ability to produce the 13-14v I should be seeing from the alternator?

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you need one of those little shops that fixes alternators for a few pounds - are you anywhere near Dartford?

 

and, doesn't seem right to stick this in a thread, so I copied it here, I do have an idea which bits are right, but can't judge all of it: item 6 is counter intuitive

 

Edited by anthonym
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Afraid not, midlands. There is one in Leicester I think. Small wires are yellow/redd and yellow/ brown.

i might just bite the bullet and buy new. Does anybody know the pay no/ manufacturer - I cannot see anything in mine - sticker is there but writing long gone…..

Many thanks all!

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does the battery re charge back to 13.8 volts when using your battery charger? How old is it?

and when it's off the car you can check the diodes with a meter (have to look up how)

incidentally I don't think any of this is causing your misfire.. but that just my GUESS. 

NOT seeing 14.2 volts when engine running is odd. 

Does it die if left with lights on and engine running? after say 30 minutes, or at least is the battery voltage then way down? 

This does seem to be chicken and egg and expensive to cook the wrong egg

"

i might just bite the bullet and buy new. Does anybody know the pay no/ manufacturer - I cannot see anything in mine - sticker is there but writing long gone….."

WOSP is popular

Edited by anthonym
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7 minutes ago, Orange said:

I might just bite the bullet and buy new. Does anybody know the pay no/ manufacturer - I cannot see anything in mine - sticker is there but writing long gone…..

As above I'd explore getting it fixed locally.

But if you want to identify what it is please add some photos, including the layout of the electrical terminals.

Redline might have something appropriate, and will be very helpful.

Jonathan

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DITTO REF REDLINE

Has your meter got a diode test mode? as I recll we test to see if current goes one way and NOT the other; since diodes let viltage go only one way, if two way then it will kill the battery while the engine is off

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17 minutes ago, Orange said:

Small wires are yellow/redd and yellow/ brown.

Brown/Yellow is alternator to charging light on the dash.

I don't know what Red/Yellow or Yellow/Red are in this context.

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/file/colour_code_for_vehicle_wiring_-_new_order_2.pdf

...

Do you already have the factory wiring diagram for the Seven?

Jonathan

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23 minutes ago, Orange said:

Battery goes to 13.8 when on charge but rests at 12.6v

 

that sounds ok actually - yes check the electrolyte level if the battery is not sealed.

how old is this car / battery? fried cables can reduce voltages, using finger and thumb test all alty wires to see if they still flex/bend nicely. If anything has gone hard it needs replacing as that hardness introduces resistance and reduces voltage

Edited by anthonym
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If you can, try charging the battery, and monitor if the voltage goes up. If not, the battery is dead, but to me it sounds more like an alternator - It could also be a broken wire from either the B+ or the lamp.

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9 minutes ago, anthonym said:

ncidentally any local garage or Kwikfit type place should readily stick a battery tester across the pos and neg to see if it's goosed.

 

3 minutes ago, anthonym said:
25 minutes ago, Orange said:

Battery goes to 13.8 when on charge but rests at 12.6v

that sounds ok actually

Or you can do the simple load test at home, as described upthread. Uses existing gear and takes a few seconds.

Jonathan

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PS: If the lamp does not come on when turning on ignition, then certainly not the battery. If it comes on and does not turn off when the engine is started, it's not the battery, nor the lamp wire.

 

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1 minute ago, Jonathan Kay said:

Or you can do the simple load test at home, as described upthread. Existing gear and takes a few seconds.

 

interesting, wasn't apparent this was to test the battery's condition - thanks duly noted

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