Wiring digram for 1987 BDR? Or, where do the two wires from the coil go once inside the loom? Solved. Much ballast resistor content

[anthonym]

On 23/07/2024 at 20:40, OldAndrewE said:

To answer your original question Anthony regarding the wires from the coil.  In the original points system there will be a white wire fed directly from the ignition switch on one terminal and two wires, probably white with a black trace, on the other one of which will go to the distributer and the other is the trigger wire for the tacho

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I have no volts to the coil when the ignition is on.

Suspect I kicked something somewhere somehow.

One second it worked fine, the next, no spark.

Anthony

 

Edited Thursday at 07:51 by anthonym
to add the answer to my question

[Miker7]

As the BDR is an escort in disguise (from an engine electrickery perspective) would a Mk2 escort loom be any help?

[anthonym]

I guess it can't hurt - thanks

[Miker7]

The Ford Escort workshop manual is available as PDF if you use google to search - this will be a lot faster than me finding my haynes manual and scanning it tonight.

Is it a ballasted coil? do you have volts at the ballast resistor?

When the ignition is on, do other things that should be on power up?

 

[Jonathan Kay]

Just now, Miker7 said:

Is it a ballasted coil? do you have volts at the ballast resistor?

When the ignition is on, do other things that should be on power up?

And what colour are the wires?

Jonathan

[anthonym]

will do. 

I do have a ballast resistor under the dash, I don't know if that makes it a ballasted coil. Yes all esle seems to work, including the starter

[anthonym]

And what colour are the wires?

White

[anthonym]

I'll get a couple of pics now

[anthonym]

The white wires seem to go green

[Jonathan Kay]

 

That's from the 1988 Caterham Assembly Guide. Please let me know if you'd like a copy.

But it looks as if you have an aftermarket Lumenition optical system.

Are any of the wires White, White/Black or White/Yellow??

Jonathan

[anthonym]

yes white that seems to turn green - in pic just above

[anthonym]

what's 41? not fuses?

I think i have the build manual, having a look.

Edited Tuesday at 14:23 by anthonym

[anthonym]

Page 28 in a very old undated manual that came with the car

[anthonym]

resolution of the original is not good at all

[OldAndrewE]

There is a better resolution of that diagram on page 51 of Tony Weale's book.

[anthonym]

Sadly his book seems not available.

• It seems now that I must test my Pertronix Ignitor which involves taking the (very hard to work on) dizzy to bits and turning the engine by hand and measuring change in resistance.

specifically from a.i. 

I found this: **Signal Test**:
   - Reconfigure the multimeter to measure continuity or resistance.
   - Rotate the engine by hand so that the distributor rotor passes the magnet sleeve or trigger.
   - Observe the multimeter: you should see a switching signal as the magnet passes the sensor. A consistent change from open to closed circuit (or vice versa) indicates a functional signal.

Given I know 12 volts is going in to the Ignitor and no spark is coming out of the plug - and this immediately after switch off of a reasonably running engine.

edit: given the meter is attached at the coil end, in resistance mode, why do I need to take the dizzy cap off?

Edited Tuesday at 17:05 by anthonym

[rkeywood]

If it's a PerTronix Ignitor II this sheet might help. Also, is it a Luminition Megaspark 2 coil? IIRC the Megaspark has a ballast resistor, whereas a PerTronix system wouldn't

 

[anthonym]

thanks.. ouch, cranking voltage is under 8.. 

Putting the battery on charge.

[anthonym]

I did also test with a separate 12 volt supply; same result no spark.

[OldAndrewE]

To answer your original question Anthony regarding the wires from the coil.  In the original points system there will be a white wire fed directly from the ignition switch on one terminal and two wires, probably white with a black trace, on the other one of which will go to the distributer and the other is the trigger wire for the tacho

[anthonym]

yes it's a Lumenition Megaspark 2 coil.

I think it's a gen 1 Ignitor

System has worked fine for ages; stopped engine, then has not started since, no spark.

[anthonym]

Thanks Andrew it looks just like that on mine. 

It seems I now have volts at the coil and several duff meters.

[OldAndrewE]

If there is no voltage at the coil perhaps the switch is duff, or a wire under the dash has become disconnected.  Try running a fresh feed from the battery to the coil (as in hot wire it) and see what happens

Edited Tuesday at 18:54 by OldAndrewE

[Miker7]

For future reference this site has a link to a website where you can download the original ford escort MK2 workshop manual, which covers the xflow, including wiring diagrams.

Download at your own risk, it's a long time since I got my copy, you could be downloading anything etc

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=742655

 

[anthonym]

Andrew yes I hot-wired it (from a fresh battery), no change except higher voltages, but no spark.

I found the old points (and a new set) from years ago and thought about refitting them, but lost the will to live at the thought of the access under the carbs. 

Mike thanks I was quietly hoping 😉

I've ordered a new coil and "igniter" from Powerspark https://simonbbc.com/Powerspark-Electronic-Ignition-Kit-for-Lucas-45D-43D-59D-Distributor-K4--R2.  given that something's not working between the coil and the plugs and it's all solid state so there's nothing to fix, only to replace. My dizzy  is a Lucas 43D. And Powerspark seems so reasonably priced and a fraction of Pertronix I may as well get on with it.

What has me perplexed is there was no warning; "engine off never to start again". Perhaps I should mention I installed two Colortune "spark plugs", but never once saw a spark with them or the real plugs when replaced.

anthony