PlastererPete Posted July 8 Author Share Posted July 8 I’ll see what I can do tomorrow. Removing from the car will be the last resort as its a whole can of worms and really want to keep the car useable until winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Shortshift Posted July 9 Leadership Team Share Posted July 9 Could be wrong but, from memory, I thought it was a simple job to remove the spring/damper assy? Just top and (infamous) bottom fixings, no? James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 9 minutes ago, Shortshift said: Could be wrong but, from memory, I thought it was a simple job to remove the spring/damper assy? Just top and (infamous) bottom fixings, no? James Bottom fixing isn’t too much of an issue. It’s the too fixing that worries me. Being a novice on sevens I haven’t got the foggiest how to get access to the top bolt and unsure if the nut is captive or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 There is an access hole from the boot for the bolt and a nut on the forward side (enough room to slide an open spanner up from the bottom). Same Allen key and spanner sizes as the bottom. I’d agree with James, doing it on a bench you’ll stand a much better chance of not damaging anything in the surrounding area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Shortshift Posted July 9 Leadership Team Share Posted July 9 The below is from the CSR Supplementary Build Instructions which may also help. Highlighting has nothing to do with me! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 Thanks gentlemen. Looks like I’ll have to take the boot carpet out on the bulkhead to get access. I’ll take a look later and see whats occurring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Shortshift Posted July 9 Leadership Team Share Posted July 9 Just peel it back in that particular corner. Likely that the adhesive will have dried out anyway. James 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 (edited) 15 hours ago, Shortshift said: I think the figures in that column refer to measurements taken from a particular car, and show measured values (presumably after set up) against specified values. The car has very slight left-to-right differences in geo. James You are correct. The document attached by Jonathan above was originally typed by me to document the flat floor set up of my 2010 CSR at time of original build with it weighted for a (fat) driver (aka me!). Different CSRs will exhibit slightly different results on final set up if they have a different weight driver. There is an later version of that document with corrected tyre offset and the various different wheel dimensions I have used on my CSR since new. https://usa7s.net/ips/files/file/252-caterham-csr-suspension-set-up-specs/ Edited July 9 by Croc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 Well got home and tried again and no joy. I’ve now taken it off the car. That top nut and bolt was worryingly loose. I know these are light so don’t need to be torqued up like my transit but still it was worrying. Hopefully now i can get the damn thing moving 🤞🏼 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Shortshift Posted July 9 Leadership Team Share Posted July 9 Well done! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 (edited) Don’t congratulate me yet. Just tried heating it with electric heat gun and no joy. Got it laying in a mechanics mat and all my weight (16st 🤫) on both opposing spanners and it just will not budge. Wire brushed the hole thing aswell to make sure then threads are clear. Any other suggestions? Edited July 9 by PlastererPete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Shortshift Posted July 9 Leadership Team Share Posted July 9 (edited) Maybe beating it with some sticks, as per Basil Fawlty?? More seriously, get some serious heat on to it (hot air gun on max or even a gas torch) and use whatever leverage you can to multiply your one man-power's worth of grunt. Have you any scaffolding bars, or long, tubular jack handles? It'll suddenly 'pop' and you'll wonder what all the fuss was about. Good luck! James Edited July 9 by Shortshift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 (edited) I’ll have to try and get the spacers off the bottom of the joint and get it in the vice. But as with everything, it’s been on there since 2005 and not exactly willing to come apart. All part of the “joys of motoring” my dad used to say. As a backup plan, I’ve messaged Bilstein to see if they sell the locking rings separately and given them the part number stamped on the body. Just incase I resort to cutting them off. Edit:- Managed to get the locking ring off but the spring “cup” started to crack free but just wont budge anymore. Looks like I’ll need replacements as its heading more and more to cutting them off Edited July 9 by PlastererPete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted Saturday at 10:24 Author Share Posted Saturday at 10:24 (edited) Little update to this incase anyone has issues in the future. Contacted CC and got hold of Darren the parts guys. He’s going to speak to the purchasing dept about ordering some. No idea how long that will take. In the mean time I took a punt and ordered a locking ring from “Evans & Son Rally Spares” just to see if there were aftermarket parts that would fit. It turns out that a Collar for a 2.25” coil spring with a Bilstein Thread fits like a glove. A tad thicker than the original but it works. It’s blue because that was cheaper than a black one and it wouldve ended up in the bin it it didn't fit. Oh and excuse the work socks 😆 Edited Saturday at 10:26 by PlastererPete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted Sunday at 15:59 Share Posted Sunday at 15:59 As an alternative to using the second locking collar you can rework the main collar, drill a radial hole and tap to M6 add a small piece of stiff rubber which contact the threads, and secure with small grubscrew which is coated in silicone grease. It's lighter too.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted Sunday at 16:36 Author Share Posted Sunday at 16:36 36 minutes ago, 7 wonders of the world said: As an alternative to using the second locking collar you can rework the main collar, drill a radial hole and tap to M6 add a small piece of stiff rubber which contact the threads, and secure with small grubscrew which is coated in silicone grease. It's lighter too.... Nice idea! Although that particular coilover doesn’t need any locking system at all. Its got its own organic thread lock 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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