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Type 9 Gearbox - Drain / Refil Plug


W33SVN

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I’ve been reading with interest the number of topics of emptying and refilling the Type 9 gearbox, particularly the difficulty accessing the allen bolt head.

I was therefore wondering if anyone had managed to replace this allen headed plug with a square or hex headed plug please?

My thinking being, such a plug would therefore allow much easier access for removal / refitting of the plug.

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That seems a sensible suggestion as its just a standard thread.....

My much more complex solution (which until you suggested this i thought was easy) was to buy from screwfix/toolstation a threaded rod connector the size of the alley key. Cut it down to the right length and use that taped into a ratchet spanner. The threaded rod connector is much easier to cut and cheaper than an allen key. You need to ensure the ratchet spanner is the type with a switch you can easily flick & not the sort you have to physically turn around (if you've got your sizes wrong and ratcheted it all the way .... you could now be stuck ......)

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I think you’ll find replacing with hex head or square will have very little if any benefit and may give you even less room. Some people glue a short length of hex bar into the existing plug but if you do so don’t use a ratchet spanner unless it has a reverse switch.

If you really want to improve things you can fit a filler to the gearbox top and use a dipstick. 
TOP TIP. When topping up the gearbox use a simple oil can with a bit of tube attached.

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Thank you folks, some great ideas there.

I was contemplating cutting a hole in my footwell panel, until I realised there’s a chassis tube directly in front of the plug.

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1 minute ago, Miker7 said:

Picture of the type of ratchet I'm referring too image.png.fa79d87f1b17f7fc60d4c14d58266d7e.png

Fabulous thanks, I do indeed have such a set. 

I’m going to cut a small length off an allen key, pop into the plug and try this out, thanks do much 

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10 minutes ago, Guy Lowe said:

I cut dow a 10mm allen key & tack welded it in but as I got older I realised it was still too much like hard work so I fitted a top filler/dip stick access plug. 

IMG_7356.jpeg

Thanks Guy, do you access from inside the car? Remove tunnel cover?

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Points well made about carefully considering a hole in the tunnel, and the importance of the type of reversing wrench... IT WAS ME THAT DIDN'T KNOW THE LATTER UNTIL IT WAS TOO LATE!

But once you have the wrench and the correct length of hex key they work fine.

Jonathan

PS: The Alcester Racing Sevens maintenance notes are on the Wayback Machine, and I'll discuss them with the Technical Documents group as soon as we have some responses on the first tranche...

PPS: There used to be a rather elegant bright metal top plate with an access hole but I think that it was discontinued.

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35 minutes ago, W33SVN said:

Thanks Guy, do you access from inside the car? Remove tunnel cover?

No it is forward of the tunnel so accessible from the engine bay, but this may differ depending on the engine fitted. Will try to take a picture later. 

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1 minute ago, Guy Lowe said:

No it is forward of the tunnel so accessible from the engine bay, but this may differ depending on the engine fitted. Will try to take a picture later. 

On my S3 1800K you can access the fasteners on the top plate from the engine bay but it's very tight. Best to borrow some small hands IIRC.

Jonathan

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3 minutes ago, Jonathan Kay said:

On my S3 1800K you can access the fasteners on the top plate from the engine bay but it's very tight. Best to borrow some small hands IIRC.

Jonathan

🤣 thank you, I’ll see if my grandchildren are free

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9 minutes ago, Jonathan Kay said:

PPS: There used to be a rather elegant bright metal top plate with an access hole but I think that it was discontinued.

Like  this Jonathan? The are loads listed on fleabay. 

IMG_2946.jpeg

Edited by Guy Lowe
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Thanks folks, after a bit of investigation and moving wiring etc. I do I indeed have one of the above noted cast top plates. However, might need to go on a hand diet to reach the cap.

Thanks everyone

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The breathing cap on the ally top plate is at the rear towards the gearstick, also it has an angled entry underneath so wouldn’t work for a dipstick without modifying. 

As an alternative I drilled and tapped a hole near the front of the top plate and fitted a blanking plug from Think Auto, 7/16” UNF because it’s an imperial chassis.

I refilled the ‘box while it was out of the car and measured the oil depth at 70mm, I’m yet to work out a suitable dipstick because unfortunately the chassis rail above the front of the gearbox is in the way but I’ll get there eventually.

Stu.

IMG_1091.thumb.jpeg.78c807b96e19a716d04b1a6f88d87f28.jpeg
 

IMG_1352.thumb.jpeg.979d14ff0573a6f5b14a2469cef178d3.jpeg

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8 hours ago, SLR No.77 said:

The breathing cap on the ally top plate is at the rear towards the gearstick, also it has an angled entry underneath so wouldn’t work for a dipstick without modifying. 

As an alternative I drilled and tapped a hole near the front of the top plate and fitted a blanking plug from Think Auto, 7/16” UNF because it’s an imperial chassis.

I refilled the ‘box while it was out of the car and measured the oil depth at 70mm, I’m yet to work out a suitable dipstick because unfortunately the chassis rail above the front of the gearbox is in the way but I’ll get there eventually.

Stu.

IMG_1091.thumb.jpeg.78c807b96e19a716d04b1a6f88d87f28.jpeg
 

IMG_1352.thumb.jpeg.979d14ff0573a6f5b14a2469cef178d3.jpeg

Thanks Stu. 

The position of your addition is where the original filler should have been if only for Caterham usage. However, I appreciate many vehicles can use the Type 9 box. 

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