Eric McLoughlin Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 Very rare post from me. I seem to be having a problem with my Crossflow 7. Once the engine gets warm, the revs won't drop back to normal idling speed. It's settling at about 2,000 rpm which is too high I've tried playing with the idle screw on the throttle linkage but it doesn't seem to make a lot of difference. Any ideas what the solution might be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 Good to see you back Eric! have you tried lubricating the cable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric McLoughlin Posted June 20 Author Share Posted June 20 That did cross my mind. What lubricant would you advise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 20 Member Share Posted June 20 Welcome back. Continuing ECR's thoughts, and on the simple causes: disconnect the cable from the throttle linkage and from the pedal. And then test the freedom of movement of each bit. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 Air leaks on the carbs to manifold mounts...? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric McLoughlin Posted June 20 Author Share Posted June 20 7 minutes ago, 7 wonders of the world said: Air leaks on the carbs to manifold mounts...? How would you check for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 (edited) With the engine running lightly spray carb cleaner, brake cleaner or wd40 around the areas and listen for a change in engine speed its very noticeable if you have one. Edited June 20 by 7 wonders of the world Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric McLoughlin Posted June 20 Author Share Posted June 20 Thank you. I'll give it a go later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmar Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 no idea about the revs but a little from me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric McLoughlin Posted June 21 Author Share Posted June 21 Hi Rob After fiddling about a bit yesterday evening, I managed to get the revs under control. Hopefully it will behave itself now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 And we’re missing our fix of Airfix!!😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric McLoughlin Posted June 21 Author Share Posted June 21 Oh dear I'll have to post up a few recent builds. Not that there are that many as my build rate make a giant sloth look like Usain Bolt. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted June 21 Leadership Team Share Posted June 21 And space stuff IIRC! Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 Nice to see you Eric, I enjoy your posts on Pistonheads, did you finish the Hs129? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Andrew Gilbert Posted June 21 Area Representative Share Posted June 21 I'd say they also need all 4 throats balancing then you can set the idle. DCOE's go out of balance quite quickly which can/does throw the idle out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric McLoughlin Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 More than likely - lots of popping, banging and spitting at the moment - but the over revving issue seems to have gone away. The next issue is my temperature gauge keeps heading to the red - but then drops back to just above the half way point. It looks to me like the gauge may be at fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 48 minutes ago, Eric McLoughlin said: The next issue is my temperature gauge keeps heading to the red - but then drops back to just above the half way point. It looks to me like the gauge may be at fault. Assuming everything else is OK (thermostat sticking, air locks etc.) then surely more likely to be the sender (is it an electrical gauge?). The instrument itself is essentially just a volt meter I think. If it is a mechanical gauge I am not sure what could cause that behaviour, other than actual temperature fluctuations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 25 Member Share Posted June 25 1 hour ago, Eric McLoughlin said: The next issue is my temperature gauge keeps heading to the red - but then drops back to just above the half way point. It looks to me like the gauge may be at fault. Does the dropping coincide with the fan cutting in? Otherwise I'd agree that the most likely fault is the sender. You can test that by measuring its resistance. But also check that the battery voltage isn't wandering inappropriately. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miker7 Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 Over what time frame is the temperature changing? Does it correlate with the popping and banging? (Could the dizzy be lose and altering the timing?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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