Head gasket to be or not to be ? Rover k

[Colin_T]

noticed some pink staining down side of the block. It is new as there’s also some spots on my brand new starter motor.

vehicle runs fine, haven’t noticed any loss of coolant in the header tank, absolutely no performance issues or misfires or anything of the sort - in fact if I hadn’t seen these stains I would be none the wiser.

looks as though it’s coming from between block and the head. 
 

engine’s done around 2000 miles since full rebuild. Never had any overheating issues or anything. 
 

what do we think? Start of something about to go ??

 

[PACR]

Check the coolant rail above the starter. Mine leaked after rebuild and needed the face where it meets the block to be flattened and also check the seal isn’t stressed when the front mount is tightened. A tiny weep here, or on the hose to rail joint, shows up on the block as it tracks along the block to head joint.

[Colin_T]

Excellent answer. I plan to pressure test the cooling system so will see if it leaks there and if need be get it flattened and check it’s sealing properly once bolted up on the front bracket. 

[SM25T]

Coolant can travel, especially if car moving.

[Wrightpayne]

The coolant rail is a well documented issue particularly the early type with the heater take off at the end. Three main issues:-

The forward support fixing can sometime be away from the head when the flange is bolted up. When the front fixing is tightened it bends the rail enough to split the gasket seal. Mine needed packing. 
 

The flange fixing bolts can bottom out.

The flange face can bend slightly becoming concave between the two fixings. I’ve seen recommendations to use two gaskets.

 

[Colin_T]

So I’ve had a pressure tester on the cooling system for half an hour now at 21psi, so exceeding normal pressure, and not a drop of coolant out of it anywhere.

i started the engine up just incase it was filling the cylinders up too 🤣 but all ok.

could perhaps still be something that only happens when the engines at full chat, up to temp, vibrations etc, but as far as a cold static test goes = all ok. 
 

I can see some slight dry staining out the bottom corner of the water rail where it joins the head, where the lower bolt is, although this looks like old rusty brown rather than fresh pink. So I will remove this, check for flat and reseal it anyway. Might even look at putting it on studs and nuts rather than the two bolts.

 

 

[Jonathan Kay]

On 09/06/2024 at 11:32, PACR said:

Check the coolant rail above the starter. Mine leaked after rebuild and needed the face where it meets the block to be flattened and also check the seal isn’t stressed when the front mount is tightened. A tiny weep here, or on the hose to rail joint, shows up on the block as it tracks along the block to head joint.

I was misled when my 1800 K had some leakage between the plastic manifold and the head. Coolant appeared on the other side of the engine! 

Fixed by a visitor from Loughborough!

Jonathan

[PROBE2]

I always put a smear of automotive silicone on the water rail gasket either side before attaching and around the water inlet on the plastic manifold, DVA recommendation IIRC 

[Colin_T]

So engine out now whilst I’m doing my clutch release bearing repair.

water rail off, could see on the gasket a witness mark where had been leaking out the bottom corner and the flange obviously not flat.

water rail flange blued up and filed and checked for flat with straight edge.
New gasket made out of slightly thicker flexoid gasket paper.

i replaced the bolts for studs and nuts and refitted it all with a light smear of silicone sealant either side of the gasket.

should all be good now. 

Edited June 14 by Colin_T