Ainsley Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 I'm about to fit the wings this weekend and the instructions / blogs all seem to show you have to cut a slot in the wing to accommodate the radius arm. But can you not just bolt the arm through the hole already in the wing - thereby removing the mess/time and hassle of cutting it ? Or does the arm foul the wing somehow ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Don’t forget that the radius arm moves with the suspension. Perhaps any existing hole isn’t big enough for that ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Have you read about the recommended use of nylon fasteners for the wings? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ainsley Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 Nylon fasteners ? tell me more 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 7 minutes ago, Jonathan Kay said: Have you read about the recommended use of nylon fasteners for the wings? The idea is that they will break easily and thereby reduce the damage to the wing and body where they are attached. I've even heard of people weakening the nylon bolts further by a partial transection. Previous discussions. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Nylon bolts so they break rather than the wing in the event of a nudge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris SSR400 Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 5 minutes ago, Jonathan Kay said: Have you read about the recommended use of nylon fasteners for the wings? Jonathan After having my arches painted over winter I decided to go nylon, it's a precaution I hope to never need but that aside it's also one less thing to corrode. Overall happy with the outcome. I have also fitting two of these grommets to cover the huge hole you need to make to fit the Caterham rear LED's as I had collected quite a lot of cr@p between the arch and light unit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384263026755 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteWi Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 I used nylon fasteners and was told by Caterham after the post build check to remove them for the IVA. I swapped back to nylon after the IVA. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ainsley Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 Ah, that seems sensible. Does anyone have a recommendation for painting the inside to reduce stones making a mark on the outside ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 14 minutes ago, Ainsley said: Does anyone have a recommendation for painting the inside to reduce stones making a mark on the outside ? From what's posted here it's most common to use something that leaves a rubbery layer. For example, with products and costs: Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Fit camping foam bed roll, cut to size, to the underside. WRT wing fixing, if you don’t go down the plastic set screw route and use mild steel, make sure the forward bottom 2 have plenty of copperslip, as the rivnuts cannot be approached from the inside (without removing the inner panel) in a few years time when corrosion has set in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted March 15 Area Representative Share Posted March 15 2 hours ago, Ainsley said: I'm about to fit the wings this weekend and the instructions / blogs all seem to show you have to cut a slot in the wing to accommodate the radius arm. But can you not just bolt the arm through the hole already in the wing - thereby removing the mess/time and hassle of cutting it ? Or does the arm foul the wing somehow ? If the hole in the wing is larger than the end of the Radius Arm, then yes. But to allow possible wing removal in the future then cut a slot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 I’ve lined my arches with the 2mm thickness option of this. It’s held up really well, stopped any stone damage and the clattering sounds on back roads are massively reduced. Saves covering the arches in goop. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144647391678?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=6t_Og-YmSCq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=YQJgs7bfQFO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAT170 Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 (edited) I assessed the fit wing then fit arm route but realised that it sets a specific alignment point without much tolerance and the rest of the fastener positions did not align at all well with the pre-cut holes in the wings, so much more fettling and filing/dremelling would have been needed. One of the holes you'll drill for the protective wing plates also aligns perfectly such that the rivet or nut/bolt you attach it with impacts or gets very close to the radius arm, therefore, having a cut-out gives you a bit of leeway to move the wing out slightly. Re nylon nuts/bolts, if you need to attach the earth from the petrol tank to the wing nut/bolt on your model, you should use a conductive nut bolt or attach it somewhere else Edited March 15 by CAT170 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Nylon bolt with a mild steel nut and penny washer works fine for the grounding in my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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