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Caterham 310S - Idle speed and TPS setting


GerardB

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Hi all,

Could anyone tell me the process for setting the idle speed and TPS for a 2020 310S please?

My car is currently stalling at every junction and running very roughly.

I understood I should be aiming for an idle speed of 950rpm but with the idle screw fully tightened I can't get it above approx 800rpm.

I have easimap and the cable.

Thanks in advance.

Gerard

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Hi Gerard,

The issue may be a failed Lambda sensor or air leak in the intake system. The idle screw should not need adjusting normally, as the ECU adjusts to the target, as opposed to the mechanical stop. I would return the idle screw to approximately where it was before, disconnect the Lambda sensor cable and see if that returns the engine to fairly normal running and idling. If not, check for any air leaks around the intake or vacuum lines attached to it.

If it is a failed Lambda sensor, read the code off the old one and search for a Bosch sensor from a reputable online source, as it will be a lot cheaper than the Caterham price.

With Easimap, you should be able to check the Lambda sensor for normal oscillations at the rate of about once every couple of seconds between lean and rich, when the engine is warmed up and idling normally.

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18 hours ago, aerobod - near CYYC said:

With Easimap, you should be able to check the Lambda sensor for normal oscillations at the rate of about once every couple of seconds between lean and rich, when the engine is warmed up and idling normally.

A failed lambda sensor will display an Easimap trace like this (blue = lambda voltage, purple = coolant temp):

Easimaplog_Failedlambdasensor_20220628.jpg.da2b06e19f5087e32fc3120bfc91b803.jpg

A functioning sensor will display a trace like this:

Easimaplog_Newlambdasensor_20220628.jpg.f61b5e13615f769fa0df54efc3cf78a5.jpg

 

I recorded these on my R400D, warming up on tickover.  The oscillations began when the coolant reached the 60C threshold.

JV

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1 hour ago, John Vine said:

A failed lambda sensor will display an Easimap trace like this (blue = lambda voltage, purple = coolant temp):

Easimaplog_Failedlambdasensor_20220628.jpg.da2b06e19f5087e32fc3120bfc91b803.jpg

A functioning sensor will display a trace like this:

Easimaplog_Newlambdasensor_20220628.jpg.f61b5e13615f769fa0df54efc3cf78a5.jpg

 

I recorded these on my R400D, warming up on tickover.  The oscillations began when the coolant reached the 60C threshold.

JV

Thanks John, I'll check it again this afternoon.

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Update - 
 
With the help of Steve Howard (thanks Steve), I have reset the idle and TPS and it now starts well but after about 12 seconds it just dies. If I start it and rev it it is fine and then runs rough after about 12 seconds.
At idle the Throttle Site is 0.0 and TPS voltage is 0.41. RPM is around 800RPM 
 
Also the spark plugs are quite dark which indicates it is running rich??
With or without the Lambda sensor connector it doesn't seem to make much difference.
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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1 minute ago, GerardB said:
Update - 
 
With the help of Steve Howard (thanks Steve), I have reset the idle and TPS and it now starts well but after about 12 seconds it just dies. If I start it and rev it it is fine and then runs rough after about 12 seconds.
At idle the Throttle Site is 0.0 and TPS voltage is 0.41. RPM is around 800RPM 
 
Also the spark plugs are quite dark which indicates it is running rich??
With or without the Lambda sensor connector it doesn't seem to make much difference.
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Gerard,

What are the coolant and air temperatures reading in Easimap, are they consistent with the expected values? Also, are all plugs consistently dark? With the engine off, does the TPS voltage vary smoothly from 0.41V at idle to close to 5V when fully open with no erratic behaviour?

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Update -

Thanks all for your suggestions, It seems to now be fixed!

New plugs didn't make a difference, it still cut out after 12 seconds so following a suggestion from Steveh I disconnected the battery and left it for half an hour for the ECU to fully reset.

Once reconnected, the car is back to normal.

Basically, turn it off and on again!

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1 hour ago, GerardB said:

Update -

Thanks all for your suggestions, It seems to now be fixed!

New plugs didn't make a difference, it still cut out after 12 seconds so following a suggestion from Steveh I disconnected the battery and left it for half an hour for the ECU to fully reset.

Once reconnected, the car is back to normal.

Basically, turn it off and on again!

It is my go-to solution for technical problems 😀

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