Ainsley Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 I've read a few blogs, and the manual, about torque setting the suspension. Some have suggested that once the engine is in place, its hard to actually get to some of the bolts, so doing them up to the required settings needs to be done while you have access. That makes sense, but contradicts the manual, which suggests doing it once there is some weight on the car and its sitting on its wheels. So, given the mixed advice, I reckon I may as well stick the wheels on it and torque up the bolts without the engine / gearbox in, but weight up the engine bay so its close to the right weight. I believe the engine is about 70kg ? The gearbox is not much. I could just get my fat mate to help out. What do the rest of you suggest ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 (edited) Yes, some are difficult to access after assembly. But you'll have more tools and adaptors by then! For the others do the final setting loaded as the Assembly Guide says: on the wheels, and with one or two people in the seats, according to taste. Jonathan PS: Have you decided how you're going to torque the rear hubs? Edited February 26 by Jonathan Kay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon.Rogers Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 I think that that option would work. However you are significantly under playing the weight of the engine, ancilaries, radiator, fluids, gearbox etc and occupants. The principle is OK in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 The guidance in the various Assembly Guides seems to depend on the vintage of the Guide. The original text-rich Guide (up to around 2015) says: ...whereas the later pictorial version says: So, you pays your money... I think your method would work just fine. Then again, the "old" method worked for me. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 You can also remove the spring/damper lower bolt and level the suspension arms before tightening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 I’m just under 100kgs if thats any help. If I get a good footing on the chassis rails I could probably balance while holding a bag of sand 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted February 26 Area Representative Share Posted February 26 R 2 hours ago, aerobod - near CYYC said: You can also remove the spring/damper lower bolt and level the suspension arms before tightening. I understand that’s what they do at the factory. They do it before the shock absorbers are fitted and simply lift the de dion and tighten when trailing arm/A frame are parallel to ground. Similarly lift front suspensions and tighten when wishbones parallel to the ground. Then they fit the shock absorbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 7 hours ago, Jonathan Kay said: Yes, some are difficult to access after assembly. But you'll have more tools and adaptors by then! For the others do the final setting loaded as the Assembly Guide says: on the wheels, and with one or two people in the seats, according to taste. Jonathan PS: Have you decided how you're going to torque the rear hubs? Rear hubs…appropriately ranged torque wrench? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ainsley Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 Ah, you mean the 270 Nm torque. Does anyone have a 5 meter long torque wrench that I an borrow then 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Try your friendly local garage owner. I’ve never had any difficulty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 1 hour ago, Ainsley said: Ah, you mean the 270 Nm torque. Does anyone have a 5 meter long torque wrench that I an borrow then Yes, many of us *borrowed the wrench and the socket. Check whether you have 41 mm or 42 mm nuts. And remember that the wrench has to be able to tighten the left-handed nut. There are some in the Loan Directory. Jonathan * Others have rigged a known weight on a known lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ainsley Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 OK, will do. I've spent all weekend on the car so far, plus last night. Done: Horns Steering arm (twice as I failed to realise I had to drill the hole for the horns first) Upper / Lower wishbones Front ARB Dampers Uprights Wing stays Heater IVA trim at the front Picked up an engine hoist from Tom in Rugby, planning on doing the engine install this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative lapsedtheorist Posted February 27 Area Representative Share Posted February 27 If it helps any… 1) during my build I torqued the front suspension with the wishbones horizontal but not on the ground 2) for the rear hub nuts I needed to buy a 42mm socket, then used a 210Nm torque wrench to its limit one side (the right hand thread) and then gave an extra generous push with the breaker bar… and did the other side to roughly the same effort with the breaker bar Caterham will sort out both as part of the free post-build-check; I gave them a list of about a dozen things I wanted them to check and all were included in the service, so it’s well worth doing I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ainsley Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 Ah, good point. I forgot about getting them to do it for me at the post build check stage. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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