Gridgway Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 I thought I would look at the bolt on top link kit for my BDR that I got from Redline.... I'm not entirely sure about how it goes! Does the mounting bracket for the new top link sit behind the upright it bolts to or in front? I am now assuming behind as it the new top link isn't long enough otherwise. If so, is there a template anywhere for the hole to be cut in the aluminium? Then secondly, how is the new link attached to the old link, is there a rubber bush between the two as it doesn't slide fully in?: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_w Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 It goes behind the upright and you have to cut a hole in the skin for it. There's no bush shown in the illustration in the Tony Weale book. I can get some photos tomorrow from mine if you want? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_w Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 It goes behind the upright and you have to cut a hole in the skin for it. There's no bush shown in the illustration in the Tony Weale book. I can get some photos tomorrow from mine if you want? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 That’s completely different to my (old) set up, my ARB went through the link & had a bolt & Y9 bush like Paul _w’s drawings so this probably won’t help 😟 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 ooo, fab, thanks guys. Yes it looks like mine is a different iteration, maybe slightly newer to use the standard S3 arbs with the ping pong ball ends. Guy, I assume that's a rebuild? Is it possible to convert to lower spherical bush rather than trunnions? Sounds a step too far for me at the moment, but interesting to note. I've got new trunnions to fit which will have oil rather than grease in them! If it's possible to get dimensions of the oval cutout, the distance down from the top and the distance from the front that would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 9 minutes ago, Gridgway said: Is it possible to convert to lower spherical bush rather than trunnions? Sounds a step too far for me at the moment, but interesting to note. It can be done but replacement uprights & lower wishbones are required & some say it “upsets” the geometry (castor), Give me some time for the dimensions (wife wants to go out for a meal ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazio Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 I rebuilt a crossflow and it originally had the additional front top link, but utilised the original arb, as shown in Guy Lowe's post, I however chose to adopt what is effectively, the 8 valve VX racer front end set up which uses the later ball type arb as it seems you have too. From memory the top link shown in your pic, slots through the original top link ( with copious amounts of grease), and is held in place from the rear with a bolt and a large thick aluminium spacer washer that is the same diameter as the hole in the original top link. if you message me your mobile number I can Watts App you a pic. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 Message sent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 16 hours ago, Guy Lowe said: It can be done but replacement uprights & lower wishbones are required & some say it “upsets” the geometry (castor), Give me some time for the dimensions (wife wants to go out for a meal ). I have read elsewhere that the conversion of theTriumph trunnion/upright (as found in Spitfire, GT6, Lotus Elan) to spherical bearing upsets the geometry (increases the effective length of the lower wishbone) resulting in increased bump steer. Not sure about the Caterham, though. Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iamscotticus Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 On 10/02/2024 at 13:01, Gridgway said: If it's possible to get dimensions of the oval cutout, the distance down from the top and the distance from the front that would be great. I can help with this tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 5 hours ago, Iamscotticus said: If it's possible to get dimensions of the oval cutout, the distance down from the top and the distance from the front that would be great. SORRY completely forgot, I will try and get the nose off & vernier on it later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkeywood Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 The instructions I had when I got mine (1991?) were to cut a 1" hole. Working off the bracket and mounting holes in the chassis you can mark the centre of the bit that comes through the skin on the inside, drill a pilot from the inside, then use a conduit box cutter for the hole from the outside. You can also flip the brackets L to R, temporarily bolt them in facing inwards and use them as a guide for the hole position and a final check before drilling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 Thanks, that looks great, the 1" hole was about what I was thinking. It's a bit more of a challenge doing it to a fully built car as access to the inside is very limited, but I'll get there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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