graearea Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 damn! I've ordered the replacement hose for my R400D https://caterhamparts.co.uk/oil-system/2840-oil-cooler-hose-duratec-short.html anyone know what torques this thing requires and if (I know I know) I can change it without dropping ALL the oil out of the car? I suspect I'd need to turn the car over to do this 😄 cheers! J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graearea Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 honestly, looking at that oil.... 🤕 it's probs got 2000 miles in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 25 Member Share Posted January 25 (edited) I think that you could change that without total draining. Detailed planning of fingers and plugs. Do it when it's as cold as possible. And there's that magic freezing stuff for domestic plumbing. Or you could drain into a clean container and reuse. Jonathan Edited January 25 by Jonathan Kay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 I had the same problem on my R400D. I replaced both hoses even though only the short one was weeping, as that way I'd be sure of new parts. The long one is 38C044A. I didn't need to drain the oil, as flow through these hoses only occurs when there's oil pressure. My problem was how to get at the sandwich plate to attach the other end of the hoses. My car (S3) has rollerbarrels, and they really got in the way. I ended up removing the backplate and trumpets to gain sufficient access. As for torque at the hose unions, I'm not aware of a figure. Indeed, I'm not sure there is one. I simply cleaned up the surfaces and tightened the unions by feel, with further gentle tightening if the joint weeped when running the engine. If it were my car, I'd replace both hoses, and change the oil. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graearea Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 (edited) JV I have Roller throttles as well so yeah the trumpets are a bugger to get off weven with ball-ended hex keys. from what you both say it sounds like with cold oil and fast hands I might be able to do it without another sub 2000 mile oil change (I'm waiting til March for the next oil change) I guess just jack the left hand side of the car up and be fast Edited January 25 by graearea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Removing the trumpets shouldn't be difficult. Just be sure you don't drop any crinkle washers into the inlet ports! As I recall, I raised the front of the car onto axle stands for better access. JV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Out of interest, is your R400D the ex-Aston/Bourne car? The colour scheme looks very familiar. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graearea Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 1 minute ago, John Vine said: Out of interest, is your R400D the ex-Aston/Bourne car? The colour scheme looks very familiar. JV yup. John A stuck the first 50k on it, I'm 1/5th of the way into the next 50k. I spoke to the both John's that owned it on pistonheads briefly, I don't think the 2nd had it very long, neither the next owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangeagain Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 Just in case anybody else has this problem on a narrow body car with throttle-bodies; it is possible to change the hoses from underneath- it's a PITA for access but I've just done it on a car of the same vintage. A lift or pit is pretty much vital though... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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