Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Wheel cap cover loose


Ballast-ic

Recommended Posts

My wheel center cap came off recently and I got a new one from Caterham, but that is loose too.It doesn't snap on and feel secure. I was thinking of putting a bit of tape on the cap flanges, but was hoping a better solution may be suggested by the experts amongst us. 

Cheers, Donald.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Leadership Team

Just use a hot air gun (carefully, of course).  Aim the hot air jet against each of the four locating tabs in turn and using finger and thumb just bend or ease each tab a smidge outboard.  A single smidge is all that is required; two smidges or even a tad will be too much...

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I printed some quite natty ones in dual colours up. you can see them missing in all my photos :D

I'm not sure what happens to them I have some that I saved from the track. I think the heat softens them up so they just... fall off...

so yeah. I can't help you here :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rear ones will soften and fly off on the track, after I got black flagged when I first took the R400 to the track and was presented with a cap in the paddock by a marshall, I just removed them. I keep the fronts on as the air cooling is much better at keeping the brake and hub temperatures down, keeps grit away from the bearing seal a bit better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's interesting about the heat softening the tabs. Both times I have lost caps was at the end of a track day. The 20 minute sessions seem OK, but going a bit longer in open pit sessions was too much. Will take off the rears next time as suggested by @aerobod.  I've gone the tape route as had some T-Rex tape (stronger than Gorilla tape!) handy.

Thanks all for the suggestions and input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess the heat is from the diff AND the brakes. I can't imagine the rears are causing more heat thant the fronts. v0v

I've just designed some with cooling channels but they're never gonna work :D

I was thinking of doing a pseudo-turbofan but honestly, they'll be a bit of a joke.

the alternative is a cap that has to be inserted from the rear.... which might work. to Fusion360!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess the heat is from the diff AND the brakes. I can't imagine the rears are causing more heat thant the fronts

 

The rear brakes are just inefficiently cooled compared with the fronts, transmitting the heat into the hub and wheel centre, even though they do less braking. The caliper is tucked up close to the rear basket and with 8x13 rear wheels gives little opportunity for much airflow for cooling. In contrast the front 6x13 wheels with the vented discs and AP calipers have a lot more airflow around them.

The airflow difference is also exhibited by how quickly the front tyres cool compared with the rears if you are not continually pushing hard on the track (such as when under yellow flag), I always have to remember to not push too hard after the flag is cleared to avoid significant understeer until the front tyres are warm again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fully expect this to not work but....  extra cooling added. I think the buildup of hot air in their just softens everything.

adding some cooling holes should allow th hot air to escape but not too much crap to get in.

Screenshot2023-08-22at18_29_28.thumb.png.2ca7c678e11a72f0a1ea5e63f8f62c81.png

they'll need some testing at a trackday to prove it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...