Batteries

[murph7355]

I've since heard from a reliable source that it is only the stickers that are different.

 

Said source also noted, however, that there may be hassle with available space.

 

I think I'm therefore going to plump for a Red Top 700. These are around about 100 quid (incl. VAT), give 550A starting power (the Banner wet ones allegedly have around 200A) and it weighs about 3kg less than the Red Top 30 (the Hawker job's other name) at 6kg.

 

These batteries (the Hawker ones at RaceTech) were originally designed to start Harrier jump jets in the field apprently, so if it fails to turn mine over I'm going to upgrade the k-series to a Rolls Royce Pegasus. Should have no worries breaking the 200mph mark let alone the 200bhp...might have to make a few holes in the bonnet though.

 

C7 AJM

[Paul Drawmer]

You may tell that this wasn't written for Caterhams...I like them but don't have one. I wrote this in response to a query about the BMW Z1 battery going flat.

 

Battery drain

I have heard some members saying that their pride and joy will cause distress and loss of composure on failing to respond to the ignition key after a period of inactivity. The battery goes 'flat'.

A possible cause was explained to me as the engine control unit 'waking up' and having a look at the systems periodically, even though the ignition may be off. Also alarms and immobilisers can require battery power whilst the car isn't being used.

One solution is to fix a pair of fused leads direct from the battery terminals to point where they can be connected to a constant monitoring battery charger. In my car I have placed a fly lead in the boot with a polarised socket. On leaving the car in the garage, I connect this lead to the charger lead and shut the boot. The charger is then reset (most of the monitoring chargers will need a reset on reconnection) and I can leave the car knowing that the battery is going to be monitored and charged only if necessary. It is important to note that a normal battery charger which cuts out when the battery is charged will not continue to monitor the battery. The charger needs to be a constant monitoring type. Mine is marketed as ËœAccumate" its' charge rate is very low and does not have the power to 'bring up' a flat battery. There are other makes, Halfords now do their own. With this method an alarm can still be used, as the car's electrical systems will remain 'live'.

 

Important note. If you do this, don't forget to put a note in front of the steering wheel to alert you of the charger connection. Cars look silly going down the road with a battery charger attached. (Yes, I've done it!)

 

 

Best wishes for a new year from a Z1 driver - have fun in your cars!

 

 

Edited by - Paul Drawmer on 6 Jan 2001 10:00:30

[TorAtle]

About Hawker batteries. They are exactly the same as the DMS Red Top ones, for instance Red Top 30 is Hawker SBS30. Also remember that starting amps are quoted for a given temperature and for a given time. A "normal" car battery is about 400amp/20C/10sec while the SBS30 is 850/20/10. At -18C it's down to 300.

 

Hawker is made in Wales AFAIK and I paid 60gbp+vat up here in Norway for the SBS30...so that means huge markups for either DMS or DT.

[tony pashley]

Experiences with a gel battery: my original Torque-starter died at the hands of a faulty alternator after seven or eight years of faultless service so was well disposed a fully sealed type to replace it. Baulking at the cost of racing battery, I plumped for the Caterham-supplied 'Starting Bull' which was ok-ish, but I've now given up on wet cells. I bit the Bull (and bit the bullet) and have now been using a Red Top (aka 'Varley') for about two years of mixed road and track and a lot sitting around unused. Weight is not a particular virtue: my RedTop 30 is half a kilo heavier than either the discontinued Torque-starter or the Banner Bull (you might get away with a smaller Red Top - I'm not sure); volume is similar, but shape is different. The cranking current seems more than adequate and on the occasions the engine hasn't wanted to fire readily, the battery just goes on cranking time after time at undiminished speed, even in freezing temeratures. So far as I can recall I've never charged it since it's first use. I'm assured it's ok for use with an alternator - they use them on rally cars after all; some of the more specialised race batteries are not to be charged-in-use. One nice point is that they can be mounted in any orientation. Mine lies on it's side where the heater goes if you have one, but now I'm satisfied that it is viable I'm temped to put it upright, but back low down underneath the inlet tract. Since there is no liquid, it won't leak when going through Blanchimont on ACB10's. If it should get totally discharged, I am led to believe that the maufacturer can, in most cases, revive them - but I don't know how effective or long-lived this is. I may be tempting fate, but so far I have nothing bad to report. The only drawback seems to be the price.

There is an article on the history of the Varley in the current issue of Motor Sport.

 

tony

[tony pashley]

This topic might be dead by now, but if anyone's still interested I have been told that Merlin Motorsport (at Castle Combe) claim to have dead-varley re-incarnation facilities - (about £12, I think) - I guess there must be other places too...

[elie boone]

The correct price for a deep discharge recovery is 15£ in the 2001 Merlin Motorsport catalogue.

 

 

[mike ashurst]

My battery has just died, when I recharge/fit it or fit a new one will I have to re-set the ECU somhow, if so how?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

[aideen]

No. But if it's a K series you'll need to re-synchronise the (Robust?) immobiliser.

If the immobiliser was set when the battery died, then hold the blipper under the dash and press the lock button 4 times. Other wise use the unlock button.

[mike ashurst]

Thanks Aideen,

 

I didn't want to just stuff it back on and go for it in case I did some damage.

 

Mike