Gridgway Posted January 6, 2023 Share Posted January 6, 2023 I am very close to putting the xflow engine and box back into my LA 7 (a year after I took it out!). Unbolting the gearbox mount from the chassis crossmember when I took it out was a right pain. Getting to the top of the bolts was very hard istr.Is there a knack to this? I assume having the gearbox mount attached to the box is the only way I can see to do it (rather than bolting to the chassis first).And I didn't take a pic, but I assume the bolts go in from underneath to leave the least amount protruding under the car?CheersGraham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 6, 2023 Member Share Posted January 6, 2023 Tools and access.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted January 6, 2023 Author Share Posted January 6, 2023 Thanks Jonathan, I suppose I should have been able to search!!Looks like capheads are preferred, but Namrick don't have 5/16 UNF in 1 3/4 length.Will search further Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted January 6, 2023 Author Share Posted January 6, 2023 Golly £5.64 each bolt from Westfield! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil220 Posted January 6, 2023 Share Posted January 6, 2023 Buy 2" from Namrick for 60p and cut ¼" off the end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted January 6, 2023 Author Share Posted January 6, 2023 If the cap head bolt has a non threaded piece which I think they do, there's not enough thread to cut 1/4" off the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkeywood Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 I use Kayfast or Spalding Fasteners for bolts etc. Both do HT 5/16 x 1 3/4" UNF socket caps Kayfast in HT (buy from them on ebay for small quants) and Spalding Fasteners in s/steel. I've always used hex head on my '89 chassis and fitted the mount before putting the box in (as per manual) without a problem. I just put a couple of washers into the socket to space the 12 x 25mm bolt up in the socket when feeding it in and use a 12-point socket with minimal chamfer on the points. Doing it this way also makes the final lowering in of the engine in easier as you've got a dead stop of the box once you've dropped the tail into the mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil220 Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 Have you got taps and dies?You could extend the thread.If not I could post you a 5/16" UNF die & holder to borrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil220 Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 Or, send me the bolts and I'll extend the thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted January 8, 2023 Author Share Posted January 8, 2023 Thanks all for the pointers and thanks very much Neil for the generous offers! I have gone for the Kayfast ones via ebay.CheersGraham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 Am I missing something here? I just tack welded 2 M8 x 15mm set screws to the mount from the top. This allows me to push gearbox & engine back until they locate and then put nylocs + washers on and tighten after I have located & tightened engine mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted January 8, 2023 Author Share Posted January 8, 2023 Hi Guy, I've no idea how that works, but it sounds like a different configuration to my 4 speed live axle setup! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 Reply to Gridway #12Ah that's what I missed, LA & 4 speed, my apologies Gridway & please ignore all what I have posted above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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