Doc007 Posted December 11, 2022 Share Posted December 11, 2022 Does anyone have a source/specifications/link to an alternative source for the caliper bolts for a 2015 AP 2-pot caliper? I've just removed mine and it was really-bloody-tight for the whole of its extraction.The Torx head was chewed up during its removal and I'd prefer a cap head or similar to replace it. The main issue is that the hole in the caliper is very tight with little room for a "shoulder".I think this is the Caterham OE version. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/calipers-pads-discs/5294-caliper-mounting-bolt-to-ap-upright.html?search_query=Caliper+bolts&results=179 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc007 Posted December 11, 2022 Author Share Posted December 11, 2022 Oh, and I think that part of the reason it was tight was the threadlock. How, do you clear out the threadlock from the thread before putting another bolt in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted December 11, 2022 Share Posted December 11, 2022 Run a tap down to clear the old threadlock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 11, 2022 Member Share Posted December 11, 2022 There's quite a long discussion in the archives about the specification of this bolt. And a recommended replacement.Please let us know if you can't find it. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTW Posted December 11, 2022 Share Posted December 11, 2022 Interested in a replacement too, I barely managed to get mine back in and torqued up they were so chewed up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 https://caterhamparts.co.uk/calipers-pads-discs/5294-caliper-mounting-bolt-to-ap-upright.html?search_query=Caliper+bolts&results=179 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 I had similar issues with the bolts on the 4 pots. One torx head was mullered and I needed to weld a nut to it to get it out.IMO the issue is the OE thread lock. I replaced all the bolts with 12.9 cap heads and use Loctite 243. I did clear out the original stuff by running a tap down. No problems since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 12, 2022 Member Share Posted December 12, 2022 The long thread (!).Is this about the same type of calliper?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 I think that thread is mainly about the uprated 4 pot calipers JK, and this one is about the standard 2 pot (though perhaps not.......) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 12, 2022 Member Share Posted December 12, 2022 ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 I thought that running a tap in is always going to remove more metal from the threads which is not a good thing if it can be avoided. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 No it won't remove more metal, just the crud in the threads. It's always crucial to make sure that the tap is properly engaged in the existing thread though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 If the tap is the correct one there is no reason why it should remove more metal (unless the thread in the hole is deformed or it is not started correctly). It will remove dirt and debris from the thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterM Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 If getting new bolts, cut/grind 2 or 3 grooves/slots in an old one and use it as a thread cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc007 Posted December 12, 2022 Author Share Posted December 12, 2022 I ran a tap down the holes. I honestly think I would have reached the torque figure before the bolt was home if I didn't. Does anyone have guide for how to replace the discs?In particular I need to know;1. Caliper mounting bolts(x2) torque.2. Disc to carrier bolts(x4) torque and how to hold the disc when tightening. Had to use a vice on the old disc without soft jaws as they didn't hold it tightly enough. Wouldn't want to do that on a new disc!3. Torque for hub nut and technique. I understand it's very low (7nm???) +turning until next hole for castellated nut is aligned.Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 A good soak with acetone or MEK, if you can get some, can soften most thread lock compounds.Failing that the tap trick does it, it won't remove any metal provided you have the correct tap, or as previously mentioned take an old bolt of the same thread size and cut some grooves "UP" the thread with a triangular or half round file, this will scour out the thread lock goo.If you try to run the bolt through the hole full of locking compound there is a good chance your torque figure will be reached prematurely, and therefore the bolt is not sufficiently tightened.Good luck.Nigel. PS Bin the Torx head or socket head screws and get some proper Hex headed bolts, I think the torque for the caliper mounting on 1982 car are 45 ft/lbs, not something for twee Torx sockets dealing with, Cap head bolts may stand this treatment, and I don't recall any mention of thread locking compound, so things must have changed over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 Re disc to hub bolts - just drop the assembly into an upturned wheel (making sure the nice face of the wheel won't get scratched on the ground) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc007 Posted December 14, 2022 Author Share Posted December 14, 2022 Thanks Wrightpayne!That's just the trick I was looking for.Now, does anyone have the torque values or know where I can get them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 14, 2022 Member Share Posted December 14, 2022 Have you already checked a text-rich Assembly Guide? (Not the new pictorial type.)Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc007 Posted December 15, 2022 Author Share Posted December 15, 2022 The brake assembly comes as a pre-assembled unit so there are no details of the torque values for the bolts I'm using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted December 15, 2022 Share Posted December 15, 2022 When you put the hub into a wheel laid face down on the ground, grip it between your knees ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark w Posted December 16, 2022 Share Posted December 16, 2022 Bin the torq head bolts and replace with Capheads . Namrick can supply a suitable replacement . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor Posted December 18, 2022 Share Posted December 18, 2022 I've used Allen head bolts in 12.9 tensile strength, the original TORX head ones are 10.9. Ro issues with clearance, easy to undo. Recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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