Charlie7 Posted April 3, 2003 Share Posted April 3, 2003 I have got the above kit from Caterham, but can any body give me instructions on how to fit it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy couchman Posted April 8, 2003 Share Posted April 8, 2003 Try Caterham. Thought they did an instruction sheet that also has a template. When I got my kit 15 years ago the instructions were missing and it does make it harder! Other than that, take the car to your nearest area meeting and see how others have installed them. Good luck. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted April 8, 2003 Share Posted April 8, 2003 There was a similar/same question about a month ago and somebody gave explicit instructions as to how to wire it up correctly. Suggest an archive search. Chris 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Brother Posted April 8, 2003 Share Posted April 8, 2003 Instructions below. Mail me direct if you need a template and a wiring diagram. Battery Master Switch --------------------- A master switch has been produced by Caterham Cars to enable the fitment of an Autolec battery master switch, primarily for competition purposes, but also for security. This contains the following components: 1 x Autolec Battery Master Switch with fixing bolts 1 x Main Cable (red) Starter Solenoid to Master Switch 5 x Female Lucar connectors and insulating covers 1 x Male Lucar connector 3 x Ring terminals (2 x 1/2", 1 x 5mm) 1 x Protection "Eyebrow" and fixing bolts All necessary cables and sufficient cable ties. Fitting instructions: 1. We recommend fitting the switch in the triangular section of the right hand windscreen stanchion. 2. Remove the rubber cap from the switch and insert it from the inside of the scuttle securing with the bolts supplied. The rubber cap can be replaced on the switch but leave the key out for the time being. 3. Remove the existing battery to starter solenoid cable (red) completely though it is to be reused later. 4. Disconnect the two brown wires from the positive terminal of the battery, cut off their terminals and join the bare wires together. Solder to this joint the additional brown wire provided, insulating well with insulating tape and attach the 1/2" ring terminal to the other end. This new wire is routed along the channels above the gearbox, up through the wiring loom grommet in the transmission tunnel cover and then behind the dashboard to the switch, connecting it to either of the main terminals. 5. Attach the new red main battery cable to the starter solenoid and following the chassis members, run this above the gearbox, through the wiring grommet and along to the switch attaching to the same terminal as the brown wire. Ford Engine variants 6a. Unclip the black plastic cover from the rear of the steering lock protecting the ignition switch terminals and remove the terminal with the two white wires attached to it. Using the male Lucar connector, connect this to one of the white wires contained in the kit and having attached a female Lucar connector and an insulator to the other end of the wire, connect it in turn to one of the 'Z' terminals on the back of the master switch. Attach a female Lucar connector to each end of the second white wire and connect this between the remaining 'Z' terminal and the ignition switch where the twin white wires were disconnected. Rover K Series Cars 6b. Disconnect the purple power lead in the main loop from the brown lead in the engine loom. Extend and connect the purple lead to one side of the terminal Z on the battery master switch. Extend and connect the brown wire to the other terminal Z on the battery master switch, see Figure 1. 7. Solder each end of the black wires supplied to each end of the resistor contained in the Autolec kit and insulate with tape. Attach an insulated Lucar connector to one wire and the 5mm ring terminal to the other. Connect the Lucar end to the 'W' terminal on the master switch and earth the ring terminal to metal at a convenient point. 8. Fit the green wire with suitable connectors and attach it between the remaining 'W' terminal on the master switch and the main terminal to which the brown and red wires have been attached. 9. Finally the original red battery cable removed earlier should be routed from the remaining terminal on the master switch, through the grommet, and along the chassis tube to the positive termial on the battery. CAUTION do not connect to the battery until the cable is routed and connected to the master switch. 10. Tie all cables to the existing loom using the cable ties provided and take care to ensure that all connections are well insulated and no wires are hanging loose. 11. To test the system turn the master switch to the ON position and check that the lights work. Start the engine and while the engine is running turn the switch to OFF, the engine should die immediately. If there is a fault recheck your wiring and if this cannot be traced contact Caterham Cars. Please note that on no account should you reconnect the battery or run the engine until the wiring is complete or damage can be done to the alternator. On K Series cars it is not advisable to switch the engine off on the master switch except in emergencies as this will wipe the memory of the ECU. While no permanent damage will be done, it will result initial rough running until the ECU has been able to re-program itself. 12. Where the cut off switch has been fitted for racing purposes it will also be necessary to fit the "eyebrow" shield around the it to prevent the switch being damaged in a side on accident. This is fitted to the windscreen stanchion by substituting the existing plated caphead bolts for the longer bolts supplied with the kit. Hope this helps, Steve Se7en-Up! Less is more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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