Exhaust bracket woes

[Kimble]

So I went to clean up my exhaust bracket and the bolt sheared off as I was trying to undo it.   Does anyone have any advice on what to do here?

I'm guessing I need to drill the old bolt out and re-tap the hole or similar.

[Jonathan Kay]

What can you feel or see on the other end?

Soak it in penetrating fluid (not ordinary WD-40) while the suggestions are arriving.

Jonathan

[TomB]

One good thing - at least access isn't a problem!  You could probably drill out through the centre, progressively increasing in drill size until the bolt starts to collapse, then retap.  However, ISTR there are various products out there to help - 'easyout' being one example.  Good luck.  

[Jonathan Kay]

After soaking my first choice might be cutting a transverse slot and using a straight-tipped screwdriver.

But drilling, extractors (as above) and welding a lever/nut are all possible.

Jonathan

[Kimble]

Thank you Jonathan, I have it soaking now.

I can't see or feel anything on the other end.  It's very low down, just above the floor.  On the inside skin it is close, but not connected to, the seatbelt fixings.  This is a 2004 R400 SV.

[TomB]

Would two plain nuts screwed on allowed you to loosen it by using two spanners to lock the nuts together and turn ACW?   

Edit - no. its doesnt look like you have enough thread exposed to try that.  

 

[Wrightpayne]

There is a boss brazed into the chassis that is open all the way through. If you drill too far it will break through the interior ally skin.

This is not necessarily a bad thing - if the re-tapping doesnt work out you can simply put a nut and bolt through (checking it clears the seat OK)

PS - its a UNF bolt - exact size will be in the build manual - guessing 5/16!

[SM25T]

After soaking in Plusgas, solidly clamp mole grips on there and unscrew it. Handles should give a big enough radius lever.

[Beagler]

A suitably sized pair of stilsons may be ok as the more you turn the tighter they grip.

 

[ECR]

Yes' I,d go with stilsons...as beagler says, the grip increases as you turn

[Kimble]

Thanks for all the tips.   I ended up drilling it out as it was so seized it was almost welded in.  Went through 4 drill bits in the process.  Will patch it all up and re-mount the exhaust tomorrow.

[Jonathan Kay]

Well done.

I recently had to drill out some *solid steel with a handheld electric drill and was impressed with Bosch "cobalt" bits.

Jonathan

* On a tandem trailer trike!

[aerobod - near CYYC]

Hi Jonathan, cobalt bits can help, but it depends on the material. Class 8.8 bolts should be good with Cobalt bits but 10.9 and 12.9 will blunt them quickly, also certain standard stainless steels will blunt them too.

I had a discussion with a local tool shop about the life of cobalt drills and taps for 20 M6 holes I needed to drill and tap in stainless steel rod, he said about 10 holes per drill and tap is about the limit, so cost me about $60 for the drill and taps even when using a special cutting fluid, you could feel the cutting edges getting blunt after as little as 5 holes. Although conversely standard HSS drill bits would blunt without finishing a single hole.

[SM25T]

Plenty of CopaSlip on bolt when refitting, with shakeproof or spring washer under bolt head