Tips for Planning for Rebuild #1 - Chassis

[JP]

So now I've got the car started and I know there's nothing terminally wrong, I now need to plan the rebuild - and plan in any upgrades along the way.

For the chassis, I plan to strip it and send it back to Arch for blasting, patching and re-powder coating.  Most of the chassis isn't too bad, but the rear basket has had it.

I am told that they will also blast and power coat all of the suspension components (I have wide track suspension already)  and fit new bushes.  Are there any particular bushes that I should look for or are standard likely to be fine?

I'm considering lowered floors.  I'm 180cm.  Do I need lowered floors?  Or are they advisable anyway (assuming I can see out!)

Given the recent thread about fitting an FIA bar, I'm inclined to get one from Arch.

I currently have a spare wheel - might go for a removable wheel carrier as I like the look of the wheel on the car, but it would be good to be able to remove it from time to time.

Is there anything else that anyone would recommend I get done whilst it's at Arch?

Cheers

James

[Drumster]

When I rebuilt mine in 2007/08 I gave Arch the chassis and anything and everything that needed re-powder coating. I also had the car completely re-skinned.

In addition I asked for the diff mounts to be strengthened and additional hoops in the tunnel in case propshaft let go! 

This was for a 1993 de dion chassis

[Wrightpayne]

There was a thread a few years ago of extra bits to add while its apart. Couple I can remember...

SLR cage bosses

Tow hoops both sides of chassis F&R.

I'd also look at Caterhams new LED light offering. Gives the opportunity to omit holes for the fog and reverse lights in the back panel.

 

[JP]

Cheers - I'll discuss the diff mounts with Arch...

I'll also look at the LEDs.  Good idea.  I guess I can always drill holes for the old style lights if I change my mind.

It's a 1999 K-series in bare ally.  I've toyed with the idea of getting it painted, but I think I'll stick with ally look.  I like the look - it's just a faff to keep it looking good, but I can put up with that...

[TomB]

Mine went to arch for a lighter touch chassis refurbish a couple of years ago.  I couldn't stretch to a full chassis strip, blast and recoat, plus it didn't really need it.  Arch replaced all the external ali panels, treated, primed and sprayed any corrosion on the space frame they found.  

I had the inside of the engine bay/ side panels powder coated black to help reduce the ali/steel bimetallic corrosion that can occur, and to smarten up the engine bay.  It looks really good. They replaced one the upper rear damper mounts that had crossed threaded. During repainting, TSK found the bonnet had filler on and had previous been painted, so I ended up with a new bonnet aswell.  

I regret not having the floors replaced as I found a load of loose rivets over winter under there and enlarged holes where the steel rivet has dissolved the ali floor.  

 

 

[Drumster]

Re lights. I'm sure older models used to have the fog and reversing lights underslung from the rear chassis so Bruce welded on a couple of barrels so there was no need to fix lights on the rear panel. Just another thought.

These lights are made by Ring.

If you want to convert your spare wheel carrier to a removable I followed these instructions

My rebuild here

[TomB]

Oh and another - ask them to check over the dedion tube.  You may be recommended a replacement, as I was.  It's worth doing this to get the latest stronger tube design, with heavier gauge steel.  

[rgrigsby]

Depending on what seats you have it might be worth getting Arch to put some braces between the chassis rails so they don't sit on the floor. That avoids the floor stretching/sinking over time.

I opted to get rid of the fuel filler and just have a filler inside the boot, this avoids the bendy rubber hose at the top that tends to perish and leak.

As has already been mentioned, strengthened diff mounts are definitely worth getting.

[Wrightpayne]

I do like a clean back panel - more so if its polished ally!

My 98 chassis has the ferrules for the underslung lights but the lights are fitted onto the back panel. I believe they didn't quite meet the light position regulations so had to be moved. I think only in production for a year or two. I'd rather have them underslung and a clean back panel.

[Wrightpayne]

This is the thread I was thinking of. We seem to have most things covered. Do you have removeable diagonals in the engine bay?

https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forum/techtalk/reskin-what-else-do

[JP]

This is really helpful guys - many thanks.

Strengthening the diff carrier was a surprise to me - is this a known failure point?

Any thoughts on lowering the floors?  I'm not particularly tall (180cm) and I have the S leather seats.

Drumster - thanks for the web link - very helpful.

I'll have a chat with Arch in the next few days...

[Tazio]

Ian ( Wrightpayne ) and I have rebuilt a few, a thing to recognise is that a disassembled car takes up a lot of storage space, I had to negotiate with SWMBO and ended up filling 2 bedrooms etc. Keeping specific nuts, bolts and fixings,  we used take away food food boxes as they can easily be labeled and stack well.

I have a VX redtop engined car, so made sure the nearside diagonal was made removal as it helps me get the motor in/out.

Take loads and loads of photos before you take her apart, label everything.

Diff mounts, Arch developed a fix after some high power say 230bhp plus were breaking the diff mounts primarily those who used Sierra diffs.

Lowered floors?, I don't like full screens and run aero, lowered floors lets you hunker down, and for me at 170 cms is ideal.

Enjoy the process, write a blog.

Alan

[JP]

Thanks Alan.  Really helpful.  If you go with lowered floors does it create problems for speed humps and general driving?  Currently the lowest part of my 16K is the oil filter and housing.

My engine diagonal is removable.  I've had the engine out twice from this 7.  In the time that the 7 has been stored away, I've done chassis swaps on 2 Series 3 Land Rovers - I've therefore got a load of Landy Spares that I need out of the shed to be able to make space for a dismantled 7.  In my mind, I'm telling myself that it's just and engine, gearbox, a couple of seats and a dashboard...but I suspect it will take up much more space than it sounds!

Also, in terms of getting the frame to Arch, will a regular 7 fit in the back of a rented transit van?

[Tazio]

I took mine to Arch in a Merc Sprinter Luton with tail lift, remember the tub is only a metre wide , and have done the same with a car that still had it's de dion rear end plus wheels fitted. If you are just taking the tub ii's the length you have to worry about not the width, as the bed of common vans can be quite short so just confirm the details with the renter.

Lowered floors and general driving, I've never had a problem and I run mine with 70mm between the bellhousing and the road ( the car is a VX) and run 250lb fronts and 125 rears.

Alan

[Wrightpayne]

I measured my SWB transporter to try and help Tazio out but it wouldnt go in lengthwise. I think a LWB would do it as its 400mm longer in the back but would need to measure to be 100%

 

I have a lowered floor in mine with leather S types (I'm 6'1" in old money) primarily to get me well below the roll bar with a lid on. However, it made the driving position much more comfortable by creating space in the footwell too.

 

[JP]

Cheers - I think I'm sold on the lowered floors now...

[Guy Lowe]

# 15 

Short WB T4/T5/T6 will be fine, just strap down the rear door 

 

[JP]

Cheers, Guy.  The plan is coming together.  Just have a few more mechanical things to check over before the strip down.

Currently planning on:

• Lowered floors
• FIA bar
• Removable wheel carrier
• Tow hoops
• Maybe diff mounts, but this unlikely to ever be more than a 160bhp car.

Just need to create the space for the bits now...