Wrightpayne Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 I'm just doing some work on a non seven that has required drilling out some exhaust manifold bolts that have rusted beyond recognition. Originally 13mm and I managed to get some off with a 9mm socket!The ally face on the head was slightly pitted so I decided to use a composite gasket rather than the single layer OEM shim steel type.The other change I have made is to use titanium studs and nuts instead of the OEM steel bolts. I know this isn't ideal from a metallurgy perspective but not my problem in 20 years time! So when refitting the manifold (using studs/nuts rather than bolts) I torqued a bit like a head, middle to outer ends in increments. It felt like the nuts were getting really tight without clicking off at the 24-27 ft lbs setting so I backed off.I expect the composite gasket was compressing so checked a few old haynes manuals for cars that used traditional gaskets and torque settings were all 15-18 ft lbs across different makes of cars. I used this setting and the torque wrench clicked off OK and didnt feel over-tight.So my questions....Do you agree that it was the gasket compressing?Would the torque setting for a bolt be different to a stud / nut arrangement? The other difference was the addition of a washer with the stud / nut as K nuts were used with quite a small flange. Studs were tightened into the head with a double nut and no lubrication on the nut.Any thoughts welcome.cheersIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 Hi Ianif you've replaced steel bolts with titanium studs the torque requirements will undoubtedly be different. The point of torquing a bolt or stud is to stretch them a known amount (like a spring) but not to a point where they permanently stretch. The spring has to be sufficiently strong to prevent movement of the joint which will cause eventual fatigue failure. Your titanium spring will be stronger/weaker than the steel bolt. Can't help with figures... Can't remember how k nuts work, do they have a partially deformed thread? If so, that will also modify torque requirements. I suspect that you'll just have to go with your gut feel and see how it works out...Good luck ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 Going back to the original problem of removing rusted nuts and bolts have you ever tried this sort of thing?Irwin 7pce Screw & Bolt Extractor Set - Machine Mart - Machine Mart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 29, 2022 Author Share Posted January 29, 2022 Andrew,I tried a similar kit from Irwin that were a bit shorter and was not impressed.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 OK Ian, sometimes they work and other not. Not that expensive so possibly having a set just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share Posted January 30, 2022 Andrew,Its on a Porsche 996 - its that much of a problem a company in America, Stomski Racing has made a jig!! Also the boxster / cayman and gen1 997 afflicted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share Posted January 30, 2022 This was my best effort. After drilling the thread just peeled out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 OK Ian, interesting. Very useful to have that jig to allow you to drill in exactly the correct place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share Posted January 30, 2022 No way would I attempt it freehand! 17/64 is the optimum size for drilling out m8x1.25 bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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