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Axle Stands


Beagler

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No dont put on the wishbones you'll bend them.

Jack under the towing eye. Then place axle stand(s) under the thickest round tube at the bottom of the cruciform.

I struggle to get two stands in as one always clashes with the jack, so I position the jack sort of transversely (left to right) then I can get both stands in no problem. You just have to lower slowly and keep checking the position of the stands, as the car lowers in an arc. It will always touch down on the nearside stand first.

Bit of old carpet, rubber mat or cushion floor in the cradle of the stand to protect the powdercoat.

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I don't know , but there is a difference between jacking to remove a punctured tyre, and jacking to lift the entire front or rear of the vehicle.

I feel that if you jack in the positions indicated, but only high enough for wheel removal, ok.

But to lift the whole front or rear you need to position the jack to lift the entire weight at that end, no flexing the chassis to lift the un supported side.

Perhaps I'm old and have had my car too long, but this stuff just seems common engineering sense.

My 1982 car is lifted with a piece of  4x2 under the very forward lower front chassis tube, and a trolley jack, then stands placed as shown in #8, now for the rear, I use, and the local WOF (MOT) use the lower centre A frame differential mounting, this lifts the whole of the rear of the car, no twisting, but not necessarily good for the welded differential bracket, and my original one did break off, fortunately only at parking speed. 

Lift the ends, or lift the sides, don't lift the corners. You'll end up with a bent chassis.

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