Aerial_stu Posted December 10, 2021 Share Posted December 10, 2021 Hello, I hope to fit my new carbon dash tomorrow mid have a question... Should I fit the dials and switches then bond the dash in place....Or, bond the dash then fit the dials and switches when set.thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted December 10, 2021 Leadership Team Share Posted December 10, 2021 Dash first, gauges etc later. Assuming you're going to bond it into place with Sikaflex (other sealants are available) you'll get in a major mess if you try to manoeuvre the dash with everything fitted. Also keeping the weight down will make it easier to keep in the correct place whilst the sealant goes off.Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerial_stu Posted December 10, 2021 Author Share Posted December 10, 2021 Thanks Stu, sounds like a plan. I've got Sikaflex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted December 10, 2021 Leadership Team Share Posted December 10, 2021 Also, it's better doing it with the scuttle removed so you can push it up as high as you can so it has the best fit around the lower dash tube and steering column tube. When it's all set, if needed use course sandpaper round a block to trim the top edge and ends to shape and refit the scuttle ... wear a mask and gloves!Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerial_stu Posted December 10, 2021 Author Share Posted December 10, 2021 Hi Stu, cheers, yes, scuttle is off so it's all easy, hopefully. Thanks for the tip. My existing dash isn't pushed all the way up I notice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timb2117 Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Other thing I did was use heavy duty velcro, strips as well as the brilliant sikaflex, the velcro held it in place whilst the sika dried, but also it just popped stright into place. Then put a finishing bead around where it joined the scuttle top.Only advice (which I wish I'd taken) is make as sure as you can that the instruments/ switches fit perfectly as you will be looking at a beautiful aesthetic for a long time, shame to spoil it for a few extra minutes/ hours fettling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 11, 2021 Member Share Posted December 11, 2021 Which Sikalflex product(s), please?ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerial_stu Posted December 11, 2021 Author Share Posted December 11, 2021 Thanks, I also plan to check they all work before building the scuttle back on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Assume your scuttle has been reworked to make it removable or are you doing this prior to refitting..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerial_stu Posted December 12, 2021 Author Share Posted December 12, 2021 Hi, I'm planning on replacing the pop rivets with rivnuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted December 12, 2021 Leadership Team Share Posted December 12, 2021 Are you planning to fit rivnuts directly into the bulkhead panel?Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerial_stu Posted December 12, 2021 Author Share Posted December 12, 2021 Yes, that's the plan unless anyone says it's a bad idea. What do you reckon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue C7 Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 When I did my sons bulkhead I cut a piece of aluminium about 20mm wide the shape of the top of the firewall marked and fitted the rivnuts into the strip I had cut. I then silicones it to the inside of the firewall so that when I fitted the bulkhead there wasn't a gap on the engine side of the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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