Rich Goddard Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 I’m trying to establish what cams I have in my 1.6 K series, because the paperwork I got with the car has no record of the upgrade. I do know it was a standard Roadsport engine when factory-built.When it was in the garage having work done recently I asked the guy to try and ID them and take some photos. He measured exhaust lift at 8.8mm, and inlet at 9.5mm (but I haven't got 100% confidence in that). He thought they were Kent, but having been sent the photos Kent said they’re not.Unfortunately, the photos aren’t great, but do show what I now know is a Rover part-code stamped on (LGC106970) which I understand is the code for a 'blank' camshaft casting (?). Not sure whether that visible stamp is on my exhaust, or inlet side.Can anyone help ID my cams?Or does anyone know whether the Caterham-supplied Supersport cams were ground from the Rover LGC106970 blanks?Thanks, Rich/sites/default/files/images/users/50443/Cam%203.jpg/sites/default/files/images/users/50443/Cam%202.jpg/sites/default/files/images/users/50443/Cam%201.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 They look stock to me, publish a photo of a cam lobe from each cam from the side so I can see the shape. They don't look like supersports.Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Goddard Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 Cheers Oily.Whipped the cover off and got the photos below.INLET: (including hand-stamp "KCDH1020" if that means anything) EXHAUST: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 They look a lot like stock cams to me, they are most definitely not Supersport cams, nor are they TF135/Xpower/PTP140 cams.Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Goddard Posted December 13, 2021 Author Share Posted December 13, 2021 So I’ve eventually had the cams identified from the hand-stamp by Kent Cams as one of their profiles, DH1020. Apparently same profile as Rover RS97101 (whatever that is).Lift: 9.00mm Duration: @0.1mm 286degrees; @1mm 211 degrees.Kent have also said this cam profile was just supplied direct to Janspeed/PTP as builders/suppliers of the K to Caterham, Lotus etc. so may have been a factory install rather than aftermarket upgrade as I’d assumed. Anyone any experience of these being used before? Seem to have less lift but more duration than the SS cam. Beyond my technical knowledge but I suppose that comes with pros and cons. Does anyone know if there are ECU map options to suit these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted December 14, 2021 Share Posted December 14, 2021 Mmmm, I'm sceptical about those figures, with that much duration and low lift, peak lift would be reached very quickly and there would be a much wider plateau at the top of the lobe, 286 degrees is massive duration , that is 6 degrees more than the 1227 and 12 degrees more than the 1444 profile, it is the same as the BP320 race cam. Looking at the side of the profile, ?I'd be surprised if the duration were more than 250 degrees.Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted December 14, 2021 Share Posted December 14, 2021 Mmmm, I'm sceptical about those figures, with that much duration and low lift, peak lift would be reached very quickly and there would be a much wider plateau at the top of the lobe, 286 degrees is massive duration , that is 6 degrees more than the 1227 and 12 degrees more than the 1444 profile, it is the same as the BP320 race cam. Looking at the side of the profile, ?I'd be surprised if the duration were more than 250 degrees.Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted December 14, 2021 Share Posted December 14, 2021 If the engine is still largely in one piece (cam belt on), is it worth rigging up a degree wheel on the crank and a DTI gauge on a lifter and then you can see exactly what duration and lift they give? PS: If you want a degree wheel that's good enough for the job, I've got a template you can print, cut out and stick on the crank pulley. You just need to rig up a pointer, a bit of bent steel wire under a bolt somewhere can work well. If you print it on stiff paper and attach it with Copydex glue, you get plenty of chance to centre it accurately and it peels off without a trace when done. A bit Heath Robinson I know but has worked well for me in the past! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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