L66TEY Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 Hoping for assistance (again). Im struggling to remove the driver side (RHD) drive shaft. Any tips? Its totally free wheel end, but the spline seems to be stuck in the Diff. Is there a trick I'm missing here?With thanksChris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 2, 2021 Member Share Posted October 2, 2021 How to Remove Drive Shaft from LSD?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 Should just slide out. Don't yank on free end too hard in case you derange the two joints or unseat the springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L66TEY Posted October 2, 2021 Author Share Posted October 2, 2021 Thank you GentsAs per the pic, I'm now concerned I may have "deranged" the Diff end joint. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 On my classic mini I used to pop the CV joint with two big flat blade screwdrivers as there was a C clip on the end of the spline. Basically lever off the casing onto the CV joint - perhaps worth a try? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 I think #5 is right. There's a snap ring in the Ford diff shafts, needs a lever out. Last resort is to drop the diff with the shaft still there and pull both out together then remove the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazio Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 And looking at that CV joint I'd put money on the springs being unseated - don't ask how I know...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 Yes, probably, but as long as the spring's intact....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted October 2, 2021 Area Representative Share Posted October 2, 2021 I'm pretty sure there is an LF article on rebuilding the CV joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted October 3, 2021 Share Posted October 3, 2021 CC dont use the snap rings on theshaft as in the OE Sierra fitment.If you have a Suretrac or Quaife in there, you can use a long drift and tap it out - old K series head bolts are perfect for this.otherwise a prybar and flick it out, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L66TEY Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 Right Gents, Im still struggling to remove the driver side driveshaft. It appears to be seized??? However the good news is the passenger side is free moving near the Diff - hence I'm happy that'll come out with ease when I move round to that side. But I want to get the driver side sorted first. In relation to the CV joint, I'm comfortable that is back in-situ. Plus on closer inspection the Ford housing has been stamped with QUAIFE ATB 362 - a good starting point :DThough it remains to be confirmed whether the Diff internals or the Diff itself was potentially changed in 2014, as I have a receipt showing a previous owner (Gerry Ralph) paid for removal and refit of Diff by Brooke Kensington in Bicester. Is Gerry perhaps a L7C member?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Pull out the other side and tap the problem one through with a drift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L66TEY Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 Thank you Ian,Im a newbie to this stuff - hence wasn't sure if this approach would work with a Quaife ATB Diff?Pic just cos it's a piece of art Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 forgive my ignorance (stupidity), would it be easier to work on if you lowered the diff with the shafts and examined on a bench etc?Again sorry if dumb question, I'm watching and wondering for when I tackle my Titan in a couple of weeks.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Tricky to get out with both shafts Mark but easy once one is out as said earlier, and it's likely that's the easiest way. I understood that one was out but obviously not. I would remove the one that's moving then take out the diff with the other shaft and get the shaft out on the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L66TEY Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 Not at all Mark - I'm a great believer in there being no such thing as a stupid question on here. Ive certainly asked a few :DMy intention is now to leave the Diff in-situ, as based on it being a Quaife a rebuild is not applicable. So I'm saving myself the work and a few quid on not having to replace the prop shaft bolts. As a side note, Ive bee advised that the single wheel "spinning up" I experienced on a recent track day is deemed expected from a Quaife ATB Diff with a soft Anti Roll Bar setting - hence I'll be putting the ARB on a "higher" hole next time out. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Yes, the spinning up if a wheel lifts is what you'd expect but you should avoid that, it's not good for the Quaife. Keep off the kerbs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L66TEY Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 I'll try my best Albeit, the spinning up was mainly coming out of hair pin turns (Bedford Autodrome) and from talking to Phil at R&R he put it down to my ARB setting being too soft, hence will stiffen it up and so how I go (probably spinning lots Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 The problem is the Quaife can only offer marginaly more performance than an open diff, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L66TEY Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 Hi Neil, I'll take the glass half full approach, hence will gladly take "more performance than an open Diff". Which leads me to asking what would the best Diff be, is it the ZF version?Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 The Tracsport has improved on the proven and reliable ZF.https://www.tracsport.com/lsds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 #16 "So I'm saving myself the work and a few quid on not having to replace the prop shaft bolts."You're 'saving'about £1.50, I bought 10 M8 x 20 12.9 bolts for £3.99 delivered......I think the key phrase here is "don't spoil the ship for......" I would suggest that as you've been hauling on the driveshafts it would be wise to have them out and serviced, Removing the diff for the same purpose is not much extra work and well worth doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Long Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 Don't discount how effective the ATB can be - yes, if you go flying over kerbs it might behave a little unpredictably, but if you're not intending to drive competitively, then it's a very good solution. From my blog: The Quaife ATB is a Spur type differential. Although there’s nothing new about the design, it does offer some features that can be adapted to provide limited slip action. Rather than bevel gears, it has pinion roller gears, which would normally be mounted on bearings, but in this (ATB) design they run loose and unsupported in a carrier. The implications of this are that the pinion and spur gear are pushed apart under torque (like any gear set). The pinion gears are then subjected to higher frictional forces against the carrier wall. By putting lots of pinion gears (12 in this design) the friction forces can be multiplied up. In essence there is a limited slip action as torque increases. To ensure there is sufficient torque to enable this process to start there is a stack of Belleville springs between the spur gears to provide some initial frictional forces between them. The limited slip action is at a maximum when both wheels are turning together at the same speed (pinion gears are stationary). If something should happen to overwhelm the fiction and start the pinions turning then the LSD action can drop rapidly returning it to a more of an open diff mode. This is typically seen when subject to more extreme track driving where wheels become airborne over kerbs. However, limitations aside, it has a good pedigree on road cars and works well as as a fit and forget LSD solution. https://www.facebook.com/Duratec.in.detail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 The Quaife is not an LSD though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 David that's the best explanation of the workings of the ATB that I've seen - thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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