YW Sin Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 My car is on strike again. It has recently developed a bad hobbit of starting on 3 or even 2 cylinders only when cold but normally restores it self when beginning to warm up. I suspected that it must be related to dampness from the winter weather. Last time I took it out, it started all fine but started running on 3 cylinders only as engine began to warm up. Removal of spark plug has revealed that, number one cylinder was not firing (wet spark plug). I have just checked yesterday the carb balance and mixture and they were in good order. My car has covered around 13000 miles and I wonder if I need to replace the spark plugs? Any suggestions? A ll standard, Classic 1.7 X-flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 if the plugs are wet then its not firing at all on that cylinder so work backwards through the ingnition system. could be a cracked dizzy cap, faulty lead, faulty plug cap or a duff plug. have you checked for a spark on the one's that are wet. I dont think its the carbs. try moving the plugs from cylinder to cylinder. if its begining to misfire after warming up it sounds like a plug going off. does your dizzy have points cos it could be these but all symptoms point towards a duff plug. Run Baby Run Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acbateman Posted March 29, 2003 Share Posted March 29, 2003 I agree - it sound like an ignition problem. When was the car last serviced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YW Sin Posted March 30, 2003 Author Share Posted March 30, 2003 I got the car working again! Thanks al l. The problem was chased to the lead connection to distributor cap. I have never disconnected them before as they are well hidden under the carbs. Removing the distributor cap and disconnecting a l l the leads has revealed that, some of them seems to have suffered from some water condensations with rusty looking powders covering the connections. I cleaned them as much as I could and sprayed with WD40 and reconnected them. Spark pulgs were also replaced with new. I also realized that N-1 cylinder was running too lean. Fuel-air mixture screw on the carb of N-1 cylinder needs 3/half turn out to increase the rev compared to 2 on others... I have no idea why but suspect damage in the hole. There is sun outside this morning so I am going our for a spin. A ll standard, Classic 1.7 X-flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted March 30, 2003 Share Posted March 30, 2003 Have fun in the sun Monsieur Sin, as yesterday it rained here for the first time in 7 weeks, and it wasn't to flash today, so got some homebrew underway, to keep out the winter cold, mind how you go, and good to hear the car is going O.K. again, regards also to Thomas, bye, Nigel. 1982. 5 speed, clamshells. B.R.G / Ali. The True Colours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YW Sin Posted March 31, 2003 Author Share Posted March 31, 2003 Hi Nigel, I did have a great drive yesterday. Covered around 100 miles and the weather was ideal. Engine was running very well but a lots of banging noise coming out from carb (under load only). I suspect that the noise is coming out from the ventury connected to N-1 cylinder. I still have no idea why. Anyway what is important is that it goes! A ll standard, Classic 1.7 X-flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puremalt Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 How much of a pain was it to get to the distributor? I have been proposing to change my leads but am put off by the lack of access Mine Farts and Belches Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YW Sin Posted April 1, 2003 Author Share Posted April 1, 2003 Hi puremalt. It is not too bad actual ly, But I had to remove the distributor cap by disengaging two clips on either side. (They will become loose when de-clipped so try not to loose them by dropping on the ground) To do this job, I had to squeeze in my hands in to rather smal l gaps which were rather awkward. This certainly needs some of practicing especial ly to put the cap back on the distributor! You will need to squeeze hard on the side of clips to re-clip on to the cap. I got a new distributor cap from Redline components but it uses screws rather than clips so I couldn’t use them. (Wake up Mike!). I think IF my distributor cap was secured with two screws instead of clips, I would have to REMOVE the carburetors to do the job which will be lots of hassle because I still haven't figured out how to remove the screws holding it under the inlet manifold. 🙆🏻 When the cap is loose you can just pull out the leads. In my case, the leads were very firmly attached so I had to use some brute force. Over al l, it was about 30 min job. but I guess it will also depend what position your disbributor is sitting. If your car is runing un happly, the first thing I would do is to test ignition timing using a Stroboscope (correct spelling?) and then ajust the carb balance and mixture screws. hope this helps. A ll standard, Classic 1.7 X-flow Edited by - yw sin on 1 Apr 2003 20:50:30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puremalt Posted April 2, 2003 Share Posted April 2, 2003 yes it does, however I also have fat hands and the finger dexterity of a camel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YW Sin Posted April 2, 2003 Author Share Posted April 2, 2003 😬 My hands aren't small either! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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