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Tidying the wiring loom - connection options


MJW16

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Afternoon all,

As part of the of the planned upgrades and improvements on my car, I'll be tidying up the wiring loom as I go.  It's a 1991 so there's thirty years of connector blocks, scotch-locks and add-ons.  A real tangled nest in places, so no doubt there'll be some fun identifying what goes where and what's redundant!

As and when I buy upgraded components - for example lets say the rear lights - the new kit will no doubt come with nice fly leads and Econoseal connectors.  I'll need to plug them in to a loom which is currently a mismatch of various connector types and phase tape.

It seems a shame to cut the Econoseals off.  What have others done in this situation?  Can I buy the opposite number Econoseal connectors and incorporate them in to the old loom to give me a modern connection?  If so are they a crimp or solder installation and where is a good place to source them?  Alternatively, are bullet connectors or something similar seen as an acceptable means to connect in to an old loom if installed correctly and perhaps have heatshrink over them to keep them dry and secure?

Thanks

Mike

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Hi Mike, 

I've done some wiring tidying on my 1995 car.  I started in the engine bay forwards, unwrapping the loom, cleaning with a toothbrush and interior car cleaner spray (I think!), replacing any suspect bodges or grotty crimps. I replaced a couple of broken terminals and checked the  routing, and replaced single bullet connectors for lighting with ecoseals.   

Similarly during my rebuild, I sorted the back end out which was in a mess.  There were all the bullet connectors, but also butt terminals to lengthen wires, poor joints. The loom had been cut at the middle of the tank for the left and right lights and joined with a big block connector - prior to my ownership! 

I ended up replacing all the light wiring from the point where the loom for the lights passes behind the rear right wheel with thin wall wiring, fitted econoseal plugs for the rear light connections and fog/reverse lights.  Then all wrapped in new tape and routed.    It was made easier by not having the fuel tank in at that stage of my build.

Everything you need should be available from Polevolt .  You'll need some decent crimping tools, but if I can do it, anyone can! 

 

 

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Loom tape *thumb_up*

Its non sticky, black tape that clings to the wires and overlapped tape, meaning its really easy ti unwrap, sjould its be needed without leaving stick goo everywhere. 

Second one down this page: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Tapes.html

This should cover most the plugs: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Econoseal_Connectors.html 

These are the plugs for some of the engine sensors such as the TPS: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Junior_Power_Timer_Connectors.html

I used something like this for the small terminals in the plugs, https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Crimp-tool-for-a-variety-of-non-insulated-terminals-TT70.html#SID=97 but if I was doing it again Id probably buy a better quality rachet type tool. 

Get yourself some spare terminals to practise on, and if your replacing any of the loom, the thinwall cable cut to length is quite easy to use and make really slim line looms to lights etc.  https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Thinwall_cable_cut_to_length.html    

Be warned, it can get quite addictive! 

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If you are feeling brave a new loom isn't stupidly expensive, Redline had Supersprint ones for around £260 last time I looked.

I did mine when I put a zetec into a 1991 Supersprint and it went Ok. It also means you can do the loom plug alterations in comfort, rather than trying to do it within the confines of the chassis.

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