Toby S Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 I've finally decided to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my 1992 Supersport - got sick of the variable readings from the electronic gauge which seems to have a mind of its own (getting on a bit like me and has good days and bad days)Now for the really stupid question - after plumbing everything thing, I assume I will have to bleed the system at the gauge end to get the air out and oil in the tube - correct ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 I don't think so. Even though the air in the tube will compress it will still be at the same pressure as the oil so the gauge will still read the correct pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 I bled mine on the grounds that the reading would be immediately responsive, but I don't think it's essential.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 Mine worked without bleeding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Machine Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 No need to bleed. Gives immediate response even with the air in the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob L Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 Agreed, no need to bleed. It will work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby S Posted June 13, 2021 Author Share Posted June 13, 2021 Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 FYI I put some electrical heat shrink sleeve over the braided hose from where it entered the scuttle to the back of the gauge to stop it chaffing / shorting against the dash wiring.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby S Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 Big thumbs up for the mechanical gauge and definitely worthwhile fittingTook on the tip of wrapping the hose to stop shorting which was great advice WrightpayneConfirmed my suspicions that the old electrical gauge was reading low rather than anything more serious - old gauge 3 bar on start up and under 1 bar on tick over, although was moving between 2-3 when the engine was revved or under load, but was still a bit of a worryMuch more healthy 65psi on start up on new mechanical gauge and 20-22 psi on tick over at 90 degrees and the fan cutting in and full sweep between the 2 when under load in normal blatting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gin-fizz-whizz Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 Interesting . . . . Is there a step by step guide out there for doing this including the bits to purchase and from where? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 The mechanical gauge is so much better ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 Re #11:Parts listDiscussionJV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby S Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 There is a kit at demon tweaks with all the bits in it specially made for a Caterham - fits both Rover or Ford engines - I should imagine you could get it cheaper if you bought the individual bits, although through motor factors, but I went for this as I wanted to get it sorted quickly- also gauge doesn't look that out of place against the orginal VDO gauges on my car.https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/search/shop-by/q/caterham%20mechnical%20oil%20pressure%20gauge/I also thought it might come with some sort instruction, but alas no, hence my initial enquiry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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