Richard Brickwood Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Occasionally, when the engine is hot, the starter motor on my K-Series Academy Seven 'clicks' but does not turnover. I've fitted a heat shield but no real change. Read somewhere that this is a well known problem and that fitting a relay solves it.Does it? - and has anybody any advice on the relay to use and where to fit it? With lockdown being eased I'm planning a few trips and would like to fix it before I go!RIB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted July 7, 2020 Area Representative Share Posted July 7, 2020 I would also check out the starter solenoid. Some owners with Ks have successfully managed to replace just the solenoid curing the problem. Or think about replacing the starter motor completely.Had the same on my K - did not go the relay route just changed out the starter for a Brise with a heat shield in place - no more problems in seven years when I sold the car. The original starter only lasted four years from new.Some would disagree with this statement but from my experience & that of others the relay mod is not curing the defect just a symptom of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted July 7, 2020 Member Share Posted July 7, 2020 Richard: Private Message sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted July 7, 2020 Area Representative Share Posted July 7, 2020 JK - Do tell?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted July 7, 2020 Leadership Team Share Posted July 7, 2020 Richard, there's a small relay in the Rover MFRU (wedge shaped box under the ecu) that was okay spec-wise when used in Rovers, but in a Caterham the load is too great, if you're getting a click it is still functioning but not passing enough current for the starter. It's fine to leave it in circuit though.The output from this relay is a (2.5mm brown/red IIRC) cable that runs to the starter solenoid. The modification involves fitting a relay in this cable to enable the original feed (from the small MFRU relay) to trigger the new relay, then switching a feed directly from the battery to the starter. If you need any more details just shout.And yes it does work!Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted July 7, 2020 Area Representative Share Posted July 7, 2020 Fit the relay it should work fine. I fitted one almost 20 years ago and no problems since. Only costs about a tenner and much cheaper than a new starter. see my article in Low Flying archives:-http://lowflying.lotus7.club/2003/2003_06_02_Starter.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 I bypassed the whole Rover/Caterham mish mass and used spare terminals on the igntion switch to operate a new relay with new wiring to and from it - not missed a beat in 18 yrs.If anyone wants to flog me their original Caterham starter though - I have a potential need for one in my trials car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sheldon Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 Just buy a decent starter motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 At the risk of losing getting hold of a spare Caterham one, I'm not sure you need to.In my case it was simply the whole Caterham to Rover wiring mess - I'm still using my 2001 originally supplied starter motor complete with its power cables. it lives under a tubular manifold, gets cooked everyday in a normal summer used for commuting, has been fired in continental heat on long motorways runs to get south, and still works every time.I just replaced the way it is switched on and bypassed all the original wiring/relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 The relay mod will probably get things working.I did have the replacement fail on me so it is possible that a high drain from the solenoid is the root cause of my problem but I now have a few cheap Chinese Ebay sourced relays to burn through. The Chinese relays came with waterproof sockets so relay swapping is easy.Just to clarify in 75,000ish miles the MFRU relay, a Halfords relay and one Chinese relay (so far) have all failed on me.I have also got through two starter buttons which seems odd as I thought they only had the relay current to deal with. I suppose it is possible that the opposite could be true and the current is not high enough to burn the crud off the contacts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Brickwood Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 Many thanks to everyone for your help - especially Paul Richards for the relay article.Fitted one yesterday and she starts OK - now all I need are a couple of hot blats with stops along the way to see if it has fixed the problem before heading for Scotland in September :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Brown Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 When I had some starting issues and before finally resolved, I carried a length of wire that I could "hot wire" between live battery terminal and solenoid terminal. A short touch was enough to get the engine started without resorting to friends pushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 22 years and 21k miles and still on original and unmodified starting components. I have a thermal wrapped 4-2-1 exhaust and heat shielded starter.That said I've thought about installing two heavier duty relays to replace the two of four used in the MFRU. There are many relays / relay holders generally available. Also a chance to relocate them.Queue imminent failure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 I had the hot start problem and it was caused by a poor earth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 I think the root of most problems is that the solenoid is baked and becomes reluctant to move when hot. The high current drain eventually burns out the starter relay contacts.After a Halfords relay went on me I fitted a Chinese Ebay socket and relay I now have several spare relays and it is very easy swap them. I am not expecting a long life from these relays but five should last me a few years. The sockets take regular relays so I am not tied to obscure cheap relays.Something like this:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-5-pin-Style-SPDT-Auto-Vehicle-Boat-Relays-Switch-Harness-Waterproof/112642296817?hash=item1a3a010bf1:g:cK8AAOSwZaNaC-hy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Brickwood Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 Morning all - so far so good! I fitted the relay as suggested then drove to Inverness and back. The east coast scenic route out/Yorkshire Dales back (1308 miles all told). Perfect - thank youRIB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted October 22, 2020 Area Representative Share Posted October 22, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now