John Cousins Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 I'm sure this is a very basic question but...I am replacing the rear calipers on my 2005 Roadsport. How do I disconnect the handbrake cable from the calipers? Thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cousins Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 Is it a case of slackening the adjuster knurled nut near the diff on the nearside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 Yes. Keep slackening until you can unhook the cable. Unscrew the outer white nut away from the inner one then you can spin them both by hand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cousins Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 Thanks - I've loosened them quite a bit but not yet enough as still can't unhook the cable. Will try again after a cup of tea.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 It can be quite difficult, some people disconnect the cable completely. I am lazy and lever it off with a screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cousins Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 Knurled wheels unwound almost back to the factory - gentle easing with a screwdriver to get more inner cable and nearside cable disconnected. Offside next same method hopefully..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 Once you've got one end of the cable out, the other side will be a doddle.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cousins Posted May 19, 2020 Author Share Posted May 19, 2020 You're right John it was much simpler! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 Now you have to get it back on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueyedbiker Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Caution! When it's all back together don't pull the handbrake until the system has been bled and the pads are up against the discs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Indeed .... Operate the foot brake hard a few times to actuate the self adjusters in each caliper. Only then adjust the handbrake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cousins Posted May 20, 2020 Author Share Posted May 20, 2020 Thanks for the updates / advice. Happy to report the new calipers are fitted and the hand brake cables reattached. I have reset the pair of knurled adjuster wheels to roughly where they were. Having replaced the rear brake hoses with flexible versions my next step is to bleed the brakes. Once that is done I will revisit the handbrake adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cousins Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 I think the bleed nipples have an imperial size nut - please will someone confirm the size? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 The later ones are metric (certainly on my 2012 car). If there is any sign of corrosion, spray with Plus Gas or similar and find a tight fitting 6-point socket to break the seal, to avoid rounding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 They're 11mm. And, as James advises, a 6-point socket works best.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cousins Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 I checked the new rear calipers and the original front calipers (2005 Roadsport) with 10mm and 11mm spanners and the fit doesn't seem right. I think when I built it (15 years ago now!) and was bleeding the brakes I had to use an imperial spanner on the bleed nipples. Can't find that spanner so have ordered a small set. (Only relatively recently that I decided I could do much of the servicing myself!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 When you come to do the bleeding, attach your bleed hose and use a ring spanner (not an open-ended one) to open and close the screw.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cousins Posted May 26, 2020 Author Share Posted May 26, 2020 Hi - I've been using an eezibleed kit to bleed the brakes having replaced the rear calipers and fitted flexible brake hoses. I went round the calipers twice and the process seemed to be working ok. I haven't touched the handbrake. I used a stick to depress the foot brake a few times and the pedal was very easy to depress. I checked the rear calipers and tried to rotate the hub and disc which seems so tight I can't rotate them! When I fitted the new calipers and pads the fit with snug over the new discs but I assumed this was due to everything being new. Not sure how to proceed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Hi John,As per my message:First of all, check that the locating "lug" on the back of each pad sits squarely in one of the recesses in the piston. This will only be possible if the recesses are aligned N S E W. If they aren't, you'll need to rotate the piston.You said in your thread (post #12) that you'd reset the cable adjustment to roughly what it was. Maybe it's too tight? I suggest you slacken the adjuster right off and then try again.I'd be surprised if the piston in a new calliper needed winding back, but it's possible I suppose. Where did you get the callipers from? Do you have a windback tool?JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 My new calipers needed winding back. I took them to a local friendly ford garage who did it for me for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cousins Posted May 27, 2020 Author Share Posted May 27, 2020 Yes I did need to wind back the pistons on the new calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Imperative that you don't touch handbrake lever until you have pushed brake pedal hard a few times to activate the self-adjuster ... only then adjust the handbrake cable and then pull on lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cousins Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 Thanks for the feedback. I did operate the brake pedal a few times before adjusting the hand brake and setting it to 3 clicks. Next job is oil change. Was going to replace the foam baffle but some reading has me considering drilling a couple of extra holes in the new gasket and dispensing with the foam.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Good plan ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Definitely ditch the foam. This pic (courtesy DVA) shows where to drill the two holes:Provided your old gasket is in good condition, you can reuse it.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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