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Headlight Dipped and Main Beam Problems


goodcoffeecode

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Hi all,

My K Series CSR has developed a lighting problem recently. First up, I've changed both 15A fuses for Main Beam and Dip Beam, but that had no effect.

Symptoms

CaterhamLightSwitches.jpg.ec32f5955280b703d656bd6fdd6d866d.jpg

  • Position 1 on the 3-way light switch, no lights are on - as expected.
  • Position 2 on the 3-way light switch, the side lights are on - as expected.
  • Position 3 on the 3-way light switch, only the side lights are on - not expected. I would expect the Dipped Beam to be on.
  • Keeping Position 3 and toggling the Main Beam 2-way switch does nothing.
  • However, using the Main Beam "flasher" successfully flashes both Main Beams.

So, for some reason, the Dipped and Main Beams aren't working as expected on either headlamps. I do notice a "click" coming from within or near the fuse box when the main light switch is toggled between P2 and P3.

Anyone seen this before who could point me in the right direction please?

Many thanks,

Chris

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Did they used to operate normally? Any recent work nearby?

...

Do you have a multimeter and a wiring diagram? If you'd like the latter please send me a Private Message with your email address and details of the Seven.

...

Amended following #17 below.

  1. Inspect the wiring and connection on the headlamp terminal of the three way switch... is it connected?
  2. Check voltage on the output terminals as the switch positions are selected.
  3. If 1 and 2 seem OK check that the light relay(s) is well seated and doesn't appear cooked or bulgy and that the terminals aren't damaged. Then swap it for another and test the headlamps.
  4. Inspect the wiring and connection on all of the terminals on the main/dip switch... are they connected?
  5. Then the voltage at the input terminal.
  6. Then the same on each of the two output terminals as the switch positions are selected.

...

Happy New Year

Jonathan

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Hi John,

Certainly :).

It started life in 1997 as a Roadsport but was then upgraded to a Supersport R by Caterham about a year later. It has the R300 ECU, 1.8 K Series engine, 6 speed box, and the Apollo rocket thing. The Firecracker Yellow paint is wonderful :). Are these really that rare?

K300CSR.jpg.ae606142c6ae588f22cb41cdd1f325b4.jpg

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Hi Jonathan,

Thanks for the detailed reply. I do have a multimeter, but not sure what to connect where. More info greatly appreciated *smile*.

I bought the car at the start of summer and the lights worked as expected. Not sure when they started misbehaving as I've only really be doing day driving. I have a pair of Philips H4 X-Treme Vision bulbs that I'd planned on using to upgrade the lights. However, I've not tried fitting them yet as it seemed unlikely that both bulbs would fail at the same time. I'll give them a go though. Is there a trick to getting the front off the headlight housing so I can access the main bulb?

CaterhamHeadlight.jpg.49f28704b88d5272108dbdffdffd1b52.jpg

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Engine off, ignition off, but battery connected.

For each of the voltage tests you need to select a suitable DC voltage range, something like 0 to 25 V. Add a photo of the meter if you can't see how to do that.

Then put one of the meter probes on a good earth, and the other on the terminal or wire that you are testing. The display should read something like 12 V wherever you want power. 

Practise on the battery terminals to see that display as you touch the probes on.

Jonathan

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Are these really that rare?

Thanks for the info.  No, a K Supersport-R isn't especially rare, but you said it was a CSR -- hence my confusion.

Indeed, I had one myself, except in red:

SS-R_0.thumb.jpg.9c9ef8f535c52a00a66d14998d72c54c.jpg

I suspect your problem lies somewhere downstream of the lights relay, as the click you hear suggests the relay is operating.  As others have said, check for 12v at various points along the circuit, and especially around the dip/main toggle switch.

JV

 

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Here's a diagram of the headlight wiring:-


HeadlightsLayout1(1).thumb.png.410d83d624ffcf2425959026298f604d.png

Note that the  flasher switch bypasses the relay and dip switch so will still work with faults present in the primary path.

The main lighting rocker switch energises the headlamp relay, which in turn feeds unfused +12v to the dip/main switch. As you're able to hear the relay operate, the main switch is almost certainly o.k. and the fault lies somewhere in the path from +12v through the relay contacts and the dip switch.

Possible faults include:-

  1. Relay not making good contact in its socket because the terminals have been pushed out of position in the plastic base.
  2. Relay contacts burnt out.
  3. Dip switch failed internally or loose connections (- even with all wires disconnected the flash will still work...)

Cheers

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Excellent, thanks @bjw. Can you tell me where the relay is and what it looks like please? Just had a thought... is there a bank of them behind the fuses? If so, do I just pull individual ones out and check for corrosion?

I also replaced one of the H4 bulb, but that didn't change anything.

Here's some data from multimeter readings I took at various pins using various switch positions. P1, P2 and P3 relate to the 3 positions of the main light switch. I'm not sure what to infer from it, but hopefully it'll give someone some ideas.

Component pin p1 p2 p3 flash
Main Light Switch Top 0 0.03 12.51  
Main Light Switch Middle 12.82 12.54 12.54  
Main Light Switch Bottom 0 12.22 12.22  
Dip Switch Top 0 0.02 0.02 11.3
Dip Switch Middle 0 0.02 0.02 0.31
Dip Switch Bottom 0 0.02 0.02 0.31
Passenger Headlight Top 0 0.02 0.02 0.31
Passenger Headlight Nearest Car 0 0.02 0.02 11.54
Passenger Headlight Nearest Wheel 0 0.02 0.02 0.06

Some assumptions I've drawn from this are:

  • Top pin on main switch is for Head Light
  • Middle pin on main switch is power from battery
  • Bottom pin on main switch is Side Light
  • Pin nearest car on passenger headlight is for Main Beam
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