Area Representative Tin Man Posted August 25, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted August 25, 2019 From memory, when DVA fitted my Omega forged piston he machined out around 1cm3 from the piston crown to reduce the compression ratio. May be worth a call to DVA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 Makes no difference weather you map it on 95 or 98 RON fuel so long as you continue to use the same fuel afterwards.I mapped my Duratec on 95 12.7:1 CR as 98 can be a little rare in rural Wales at times as most things out there use red diesel If your running and Emerald K3 or K6 you can have multiple maps on for 95 and another for 98...... but be warned not all 98 fuels behave in the same manner !Not sure where you are in the country but if you are running an Emerald its worth heading over to see Dave Walker or John at Emerald Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted August 26, 2019 Author Share Posted August 26, 2019 Thanks something to bare in mind, I was hoping to try and keep the spend down and was going to put the engine back together as it was plus a slightly higher compression it was mapped on 95 octane and I think it was mapped on the conservative side for safety . I had my injectors cleaned and tested at Emerald and they performed fine at the rolling road session but they were getting towards their maximum capacity. I don't really want to have to rely on 98 octane fuel if I can help it. Does the K6 have the facility for a knock sensor?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 If you fit n MLS gasket with shim, then the CR will drop to approximately the same level as before..Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted August 30, 2019 Author Share Posted August 30, 2019 Hi thanks I will go for the elastomer gasket and increased compression and a rolling road sessionSpent most of the day stripping and cleaning the block, grinding clearance for the starter what a pain! Spigot bush and bearing fitted and crank and block now assembled. I have also bought a second 1.8 K bottom end. I have a set of standard rods and pistons in their liners a garage full of enough spares to build a complete Supersport engine to drop in just incase!One thing I noticed is the rubber in the crankshaft damper has perished, more expense! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 I have a new pulley here Phil, and a couple of secondhand ones.. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 Doh I bought one, thanks Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted September 7, 2019 Author Share Posted September 7, 2019 These arrived in the post yesterday, I have to say the rods look extremely well made. The machining and finish of rods around the big end put the Rover rods to shame! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 My browser just flashed up a porn warning (automotive!) :-0Look good!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted September 7, 2019 Author Share Posted September 7, 2019 Yes I was thinking the pistons almost look too good to put inside an engine where you can't see them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 Spent the last 8 hours building up the bottom end, no wonder engines are so expensive. I've had to give up with the crankshaft oil seal I couldn't get it seat. The last engine I built i used a rubber mallet to seat the oil seal but this time I just can't it in. I'm going to make a tool tomorrow to press it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Phil,I have a seal clamp here I can loan you, I can pack it with the pulley, sprocket and valves..Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Maybe the seal is the wrong size (after market copy?) I’ve certainly had a problem with an after market front crank oil seal that was demonstrably undersize (made a terrible oily mess when it popped out). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Pretty sure it’s one of mine so it will be correctly dimensioned, it is quite tight but then it has to be as the housing expands when hot and it is a large diameter seal, in addition the housing/nacelle tends to slacken a little over time. Cemented in with silicone sealant on the flange and clamped it should stay in place.Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 Hi Oily thanks it's in, I used the Rover black sealant and put a bit too much on which made it difficult to locate. I removed all the sealant cleaned everything up and made a tool to press it in and used a bit less sealant. A bit Heath Robinson but it did the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Thank looks like a good solution, well done.Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted September 16, 2019 Author Share Posted September 16, 2019 Nearly done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted September 18, 2019 Author Share Posted September 18, 2019 Finally I've got it in, it took some time to line it up with the first motion shaft Have used Millers running in oil to bed in the rings, I started it last night and took it straight out and gave it some wide throttle openings to bed the rings in. How long are you supposed to leave this stuff in? I'm hoping to put a few hundred mile on it tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted September 18, 2019 Member Share Posted September 18, 2019 Great to see the progress, Phil.JonathanPS: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnJo Posted September 19, 2019 Share Posted September 19, 2019 Fantastic! Well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted September 19, 2019 Author Share Posted September 19, 2019 Thanks! I tried to rotate the photo but it was beyond my pathetic computer skills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1 se7en Posted September 19, 2019 Share Posted September 19, 2019 The advice given to me by DVA was as follows:Mineral oil (I'm guessing your running in oil is similar) for 500 miles, then an oil and filter change to semi synthetic for 2000 miles. Then oil and filter change to fully synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted September 19, 2019 Share Posted September 19, 2019 The 2000 miles on semi is a little pointless, just 500 on running oil driven hard from day one, none of this light load and under 4k..... nonsense.Better still run it in on the rollers then you can check the mapping too.Then onto your chosen synthetic tipple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted September 19, 2019 Share Posted September 19, 2019 Worked for both mine . .. on the standard head gasket change at 30,000 miles ish ;) , bores showed no feel-able sign of wear, still had good crosshatching pattern.Worked on the crossflow in the trials car too - although that does smoke on occasion - the occasions when it's at more than 45 degrees to the horizontal and theres something else going on with the oil flow ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted September 20, 2019 Author Share Posted September 20, 2019 Thanks, I've been out today and put a few hundred miles on and everything seems good, it was boiling hot today. I am not reving it above 4000 but plenty of throttle now and again to bed the rings in. I have put an 88 thermostat in because my oil temperature was a bit low. My radiator fan switch has failed, what temperature range switch is used for an 88 degree stat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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