Leadership Team Midas Posted July 25, 2019 Leadership Team Share Posted July 25, 2019 As it says in the title. I have a cable operated clutch (yr 2000 K series) and a six speed box. I can select all forward gears with ease, however when the engine is running I cannot get reverse cleanly without graunching the gear - even though the clutch pedal is to the floor. It has got worse. over the past few months.The gearlever spring action is quite stiff, so I will look at that, but even with the spring fully compressed I cannot get reverse cleanly.I have read that the clutch is not adjustable so I am fearing it is clutch drag and time for a new clutch.However thought I would get other opinions before I go to the effort of pulling out the engine and box.The car has covered 38 000 miles and I assume the clutch is original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 All I would suggest is to put it into a forward gear, keep the clutch depressed and then move from that gear into reverse. If it still ‘graunches’ then it does look like clutch drag. If I go from neutral, clutch released, to depress clutch and go into reverse quickly I would expect a graunch. Everything in the box is moving, no synchro in reverse. Going into a forward gear first stops the box internals rotating so reverse should engage cleanly. If it doesn’t it indicates that clutch drag is keeping the internals spinning. IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 Sounds like clutch drag to me ... I'd try adjusting the cable before pulling the engine out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 It might also be a failing cable. If adjustment doesn't help, take out the cable and test the inner for smooth operation and examine for broken strands.How old is the cable?JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Midas Posted July 25, 2019 Author Leadership Team Share Posted July 25, 2019 The cable is still the original - so i will have a look at that - all things to do before the dreaded engine out job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean b Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 I just had the exact same problem as you described, hopefully the remedy is the same as mine ?Remove passengers seat,Remove tunnel cover,you now have access to the gear leaver,unscew the 3 retaining bolts and lift out the gear-lever assembly.You can now strip down the assembly,clean all parts paying particular attention to the shaft (polish dia with wet n dry paper) and lubricate spherical bearing.Rebuild , hopefully the unit will now be freed up.Now look down into the gear selector assembly and you will see a black plastic saddle, remove the saddle and check for wear ,if you need to replace item (available from road and race)Rebuild and hopefully all will now be smooth and easy to operate Good luck Sean b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 That's a relief, I couldn't understand why selector problems weren't in the suggestions.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 But check the cable first.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 Why would a selector issue make it graunch, only in reverse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 I can't see how it could be selector either? Happy to be educated though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Midas Posted July 29, 2019 Author Leadership Team Share Posted July 29, 2019 Thanks for the advice - back from a windy and wet Silverstone so will look at this today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Midas Posted July 29, 2019 Author Leadership Team Share Posted July 29, 2019 Update and further request for advice - I've replaced the clutch cable - the old one seemed OK, and moved freely but the wire had worn a groove in the brass threaded area in the pedal box so the new one is now on. No difference in feel.I have taken out the gear lever assembly, but a question for Sean B - I cannot see any way it strips down. Mine looks like a sealed unit.Everything at the gear lever end of the gearbox is 'dry'. There is no sign anything like grease has been near to any of the parts at any time.The black plastic bridge is also in good condition.Anything I might have missed before I contemplate the clutch being taken out*banghead* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean b Posted July 29, 2019 Share Posted July 29, 2019 The unit is held together using circlips .remove top and bottom clips to expose shaft ,all will become apparent on strip down.Lubricate unit and selector fork with grease prior to rebuild.sean b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Midas Posted July 29, 2019 Author Leadership Team Share Posted July 29, 2019 I seem to have a gear lever which is different to those mentioned above and in the Caterham website. I have posted two images below. There are no visible circlips and everything is tightly sealed. Anyone know how you dismantle one of these levers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Midas Posted July 30, 2019 Author Leadership Team Share Posted July 30, 2019 For future reference, I spoke to Caterham this morning. The gear lever assembly shown above is a standard Ford component which was used before Caterham moved to using a quaife-sourced item. The Ford item cannot be disassembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 The Ford unit is nicely sealed unlike the new one. When I greased my new version, I added a rubber gaiter to stop grit and water falling into top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean b Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 As your unit has a gaiter fitted we could assume that although the unit is dry that there is no ingress of dirt etc.So is it possible to peel back the gaiter and submerge the unit in a bath of Wd40 or similar to penetrate into the bearing and hopefully free up the shaft and spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Midas Posted August 2, 2019 Author Leadership Team Share Posted August 2, 2019 Final update - the problem turned out to be the cable. Although the original cable looked good closer inspection showed some advanced signs of wear. new cable fitted and probelm fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Good news, and thanks for the update.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted August 2, 2019 Area Representative Share Posted August 2, 2019 Would prefer a worn clutch cable than having to out the engine & gearbox for a U/S clutch slave cylinder which is the case on later Duratec cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Good news Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy the 7th Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Midas, hi.You say you channged the clutch cable on the 29th July and the problem was still the same, you say you've changed it again today and its working ok now. Was the new cable faulty somehow or have you simply re-adjusted it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Alston Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 I had a similar problem some years ago with intermittent gear selection difficulties. It turned out to be the needle roller bearing in the crankshaft nose breaking up and grabbing hold of the first motion shaft of the gearbox. So even with the clutch depressed the gearbox internals were still turning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Good question Grumpy, though I read it that he’d changed the cable and it still felt the same but he hadn’t then actually run the car. In the event the cable change did solve things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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