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K series coolant


CageyH

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Thanks.

From the limited amount of information I've been able to find on the composition of G13 I'd want to know about the following before putting it in my Seven:

  1. The change in heat transfer capacity and viscosity following the replacement of some ethylene glycol with glycerine. But I haven't seen any adverse comments about this and I don't know that Sevens are different from anything else.
  2. The corrosion protection for the block, head etc. Ditto.
  3. The risk of corrosion to copper and brass components, lead solder etc. Possibly highest in the radiator, heater, heater valve, brass T pieces etc. VAG would have total control over avoiding those in their new models whereas our Sevens have all sorts of bits and pieces.

Jonathan

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My radiator is plastic and aluminium. The submarine is steel, but would it have been soldered with lead? (And of course the same question for the water rail).

Next generation Silllylight will have alloy tubes as well.

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However, G13 is not ideal for older cooling systems with copper/brass radiators and heater cores (it doesn’t integrate well with the lead solder). Antifreeze with G11 or G12 specification should be used instead.

I guess it’s not a good idea then if you copper or brass in the system.

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A little further reading also reveals that OAT coolant is not good for copper or brass either. So I don’t see G13 coolant being any worse than Comma G30. However, if you have a heater, I would try and avoid both. A traditional coolant (the old Comma blue or green) or maybe the Prestone is looking like the best choice.

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Just make sure that whatever you choose, it is not only compatible with all of the metals individually but will suppress the galvanic corrosion which would otherwise occur where for example the steel liners sit in contact with the aluminium head. Dissimilar metals in contact in an electrolyte are just looking for trouble.

I recently had to put a lot of time into rebuilding somebody's engine after they used pure water for just a short time. The corrosion pitting of the head face and the block deck in close proximity to the liners was shocking. It had actually eaten quite deeply into the metal, leaving it spongy and porous and needed aggressive peening and skimming to recover it.

It eventually ate the aluminium around the fire rings to the point where the head gasket failed. It left the head with what looked superficially like the normal indentation caused by annealing of the alloy, but on Dave Andrews' tester the metal was still as hard as the day it left Longbridge. It was just the galvanic action at the point of contact that did the damage in the absence of corrosion inhibitors.

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If JK,

 

This is the one I asked about - https://www.holtsauto.com/prestone/products/coolant-antifreeze-ready-use/ but I ordered 4 litres of concentrate for €24.

 

The electrolytic corrosion caused by copper and aluminium is something that is concerning, so I may look to see if I can find a high quality aluminium matrix when my current matrix fails.

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Just make sure that whatever you choose, it is not only compatible with all of the metals individually but will suppress the galvanic corrosion which would otherwise occur where for example the steel liners sit in contact with the aluminium head.

Definitely. But how can an individual owner know?

The suppliers don't disclose the formulation, except in general terms for safety compliance. And the chemistry of corrosion inhibition is very... complex.

 And they don't disclose the results of even medium-term tests. And probably don't do them, or anything beyond ASTM compliance or similar.

That ignorance pushes me towards being very risk averse. Which is why I use what the engine manufacturer/ supplier recommends and a lot of other owners use.

Jonathan

 

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