Petethediesel Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 Good day gentlemen, I have a 2018 spec 360 with a dry sump system. It is fitted with the latest spec 420 combined rad/oil cooler which I think was originally fitted on race spec R400's. I have fitted the temp switch in the tank through to a toggle switch on the dash and then to the water gauge, so I can switch between oil/water temps. In yesterday's ambient of 10C and in normal, quickish when you can, road driving, the tank temp was about 55C max. Even allowing for the oil to be a good 5C above this when exiting the oil pump pressure side, it's still well below the ideal 90/100C. Not entirely linear but I'd expect this to be improved to around 75C in a 30C ambient. Today I blanked off the oil cooler front and did the same run (10C ambient again). Oil raised to a max of 70 C at the tank, so still lower than I would like. Potentially 90 C oil tank temp in a 30C ambient. Sure on track would be higher, but with the car doing mostly road driving my questions are this:Does anyone have part numbers/source for a an in line thermostat controlled bypass unit? What temps are others seeing on a similar set up?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 Ideally you need to firstly relocate your temp sender into the big plug in the Raceline sump (Assuming your running the stock CC / Raceline DS set up ?)You can drill and tap this to suit, although I has a new one made up with more material on the head to offer more threads you can get thermostatic bypass valves from Think Automotive, and could locate it in the nose running the bypass hose in the area for ease of plumbing.Might has access to a new style sump plug tapped etc if our interested - drop me a BM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 I’m not sure it matters where you take the temperature, unless you are just trying to find out the maximum it gets to. Like most measurements it’s establishing a norm and warning of the out of the ordinary.Mine’s set up like the OP’s but shows 65/70 on the road, 80/85 on track. I would suggest the cooler lowers the temperature by much more than 5c, so I’m quite happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Well isnt that what you want to know - the maximum temp Measure it in the wrong place and its really a pointless excercise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 I don’t agree. I want to know when it’s up to normal running temperature and I want to know if the normal maximum is exceeded, or indeed, isn’t being reached. I know what’s normal for my set up, which appears to work well, and I’ll get an indication if things become abnormal. I think there’s a point to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 So why don't you measure the water temp from the bottom of the radiator then ...?Because irrespective of watching the temp rise during warm up - which a correctly located sender still offers, your more interested in peak temp measured from the point where the fluid has the most energy, this way you know whats happening rather than guessing with a varying degree of accuracy as to whats going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 ... relocate your temp sender into the big plug in the Raceline sump...Out of interest, is that the same big blue plug that's fitted to the Duratec wet sump? JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 Hi john,Similar the one in the DS pan locates and secure th gauze finger filter, it pushes into the sump and is secured with a small cap screw on a flange, the wet sump one is more of a large conventional sump plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 Thanks, Neil. ...the wet sump one is more of a large conventional sump plug.Yes, indeed. This is mine, drilled and tapped for a temp sender:JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 Perfect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p.mole1 Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 I have a K series wet sump and used have problems with high oil temperatures. I fitted an Apollo and I now have the reverse, my oil now only gets to around 60/70 degrees on the road. I am going to lag the tank and remove the lagging for track days.I can only assume the Apollo tank acts like a radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petethediesel Posted April 10, 2019 Author Share Posted April 10, 2019 This broadly reflects my findings. For sure the latest spec triangular main oil tank of around 7.5 litrs capacity is a large heat sink right up front in the airflow. I'm going to re pipe to isolate the cooler or fit a thermostatic valve that cuts in at 80C. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 insulate the tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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