Mark Deacon Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 Some help please before I take up walking. I'm just building a 1.8 Xpower (140) SV and today it was time to start the engine for the first time. BUT IT WON'T START. I'll phone Dartford in the morning but any help now to help me sleep would be appreciated. I've kept religiously to the manual with all the electrical connections. Indeed it should be hard to get them wrong as they are all paired with unique connectors so I THINK they are all ok. Been through them all 20 times! The car has a master cut out switch fitted. I'm pretty sure I've done everything as it should, but it's not happening. What does happen is the car starts and runs perfectly, and sounds great for about '1' second and then stops as if something is turning it off. It runs for exactly the same period everytime before stopping. Once it stops, a noise can then be heard coming from the fuel injection system which is a very quiet high pitched note. It will only stop doing it when I turn of the master isolator and switch it back on again. I think most of it must be wired / connected correctly as when the car does run, it sounds perfect. Any ideas please!!!!!! 😳 😳 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickie Normuss Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 I'm no expert, but I think I remember someone else having a similar problem recently, was the ignition and fuel pupm cross wired or something. I'm sure a suitably qualified "expert" will be along shortly to shoot big holes in my answer and give you more sound advice. Seek forgiveness, not permission. Is it easy to rob a bank and get away with it??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 very quiet high pitched note.this is normal don't worry they all do it . it sounds like your not switching of the immobilizer ,alarm. are you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Deacon Posted March 9, 2003 Author Share Posted March 9, 2003 Yes I think you may be right about the not switching the immobilisor. I think that does get rid of the noise from memory. I don't know how the petrolpump ang ignition could eb cross wired but your idea sounds promising. Can you remember anymore about it ? deacs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug phillips Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 I second Fred *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* There was a therad a couple of weeks ago on how to re-set the ECU. Think it was some thing like turn key on ....press the gas peadle 7 times then try to start. Sorry but thats all I can re-call. Doug, Su77on Se7ens See our web site here. Bugger...... I aint done it yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 you disable the immobolizer pipper, turn key on, push the gas pedal to the floor 5 times, then turn off key, and pip the immobolizer to enable it. that's the MEMS procedure at least. i can't tell what you have for an ECU. if its a 5-6 inch by 5-6 inch silver box it is. otherwise someone will be along with the correct information soon i hope Steve 210Bhp SV-VHPD click here to see our pictures.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 Sounds like no fuel pump drive. This is a supply generated by the ECU which drives the MFU relay box. Get a voltmetter or a 12 bulb and two bits of wire. Connect the meter -ve (or one side of the bulb) to the battery -ve post. Carefully check the following pins on the MFU (thats the black box next to the ECU) as follows: On the big plug check pin 5 - this is the main output to the fule pump. If this is showing +12v when you first switch on the ignition and disable the immobilisor, and then drops to 0v when the engine dies, this confirms the fuel pump theory. There is a fule pump fuse on the fusebox. Check this is OK, and if blown check all connections to the fule pump in case they are shorting. (unlikley) Then chek the big grey plug which joins the engine loom to the car loom - this being badly seated, or with a pin pushed out, is the most likley cause of the problem. For info, MFU pinouts are as follows: MFU Input. (Small Plug) 1. ECU relay control from ECU 2. Fuel relay control from ignition 3. Fuel relay control from ECU 4. Starter relay control ground 5. Starter relay control from ignition MFU Outputs. (Big Plug) 3. Fuel Pump Relay power supply 4. Output to Starter Solenoid 5. Output to Fuel Pump 7. Starer Motor Relay power supply 8. ECU Relay Power Supply. I'm becomeing quuite a K expert........ (not through choice....) AW Fat Arn Visit the K2 RUM website See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buda Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 eu2 engine is press accelerator 5 times, eu3 is seven times using the above procedure.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceW Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 What you describe sounds like the immobiliser. The first time I got everything connected it took several goes on the plip switch to activate the immobiliser for the first time. Then you have to wait for the fast flashes of the LED to settle down before disengaging the immobiliser and going for a start up. It will fire for a few seconds on vapour and then stop as the fuel pump cuts out if the immobiliser is not disengaged-just as you describe. If the immobilser appears to set and rest OK then listen for the fuel pump whirring when you first turn the ignition to the second click. If it is not doing this then the power to the fuel pump is the problem. Also check the fuel cut off switch is connected and pressed fully down too. On the bulkhead above the ECU. Bruce Edited by - BruceW on 10 Mar 2003 10:56:23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 I agree with the threads that it really does sound like the immobiliser is not being disarmed. The immobiliser will allow the car to start and run for about 2 secs then switches it off. God knows why it does this - there is an option on the CC ECU to disallow any starting when immobilised but CC don't use it for some reason. If you try and start it again immediately - it won't start - just turns over. If you leave it for some moments - haven't timed how long - it will allow the 2 second start up again - ad infinitum. Have you been through the immobiliser synchronisation routine? viz: push the ARM button 4 times and you should hear clicks from the immobiliser system. Then push the DISARM button and the immobilser should switch off - the car will now start normally (if, of course, this was the source of the problem). The immobiliser will not switch off via the plipper if the plipper has not been through this synch routine. Usually needs to be done after every time you disconnect the battery when you're working on the electrics. Even if the immobiliser is armed, you will still hear the fuel pump running for a few secs everytime you switch on the ignition (providing you give it a couple of mins between switch-ons). 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bowden Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 Any Luck yet. Do let us know the outcome. I can't hold my breath much longer or 🤔 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceW Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 Suspense is killing me... I can almost here that lovely moment when it bursts into life and he starts dancing around the garage with joy. bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickie Normuss Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 See, told you I was talking B*****KS Seek forgiveness, not permission. Is it easy to rob a bank and get away with it??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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