garybee Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 It looks like you've got the information you need now thanks to Bob. I'm afraid I got frustrated trying to help as there was too much misleading information being posted. Effectively you just need to ensure that each of the outlets on the back of the head have a route back to the inlet at the front of the block (pump impeller). They have different functions to perform before they get there though:-32mm connection goes through radiator16mm on left side goes straight to inlet on block16mm on right hand side goes through heater then to inlet on block10mm is the bleed connector, runs to the top of the header tankTo minimise the plumbing these can be combined but only after they've done their respective jobs.The larger connection on your header tank needs to be connected to a point on the system that has consistent supply to allow expansion of the system. If you're smart with where you combine the other coolant runs you can minimise this run too.I'd suggest drawing out your intended system before you spend any money on hoses/connectors etc. If you post it I'm happy to take a look if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Car Builder Solutions supply a nice brass tee connector. Alternatively try your local hydraulic hose supplier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Hi JamieIf I am understanding you correctly your lower 32mm radiator pipe is in alloy and has 2 15mm outlets? If this is correct then you don't need to add another one, you can just use a 15mm T joiner to branch the heater hose into the 15mm feed from the bottom of your header tank.I used the Car Builder Solutions T-piece mentioned above for mine, worked well. I had my header tank on the scuttle so put the T where the heater would have been, I cant see your header tank so assume it is at the front on yours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcaswell Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 This is what I have come up with. My header tank is at the front. To eliminate one run of hose to the alloy pipe below rad I T connected going from heater and by pass hose and take one hose to front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Think this will still give issues because you are putting a t into your bypass hose, I would run 2 15mm hoses forwards, one each side of the engine and T the heater one close to the header tank, that is the way ford intended it to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 I'd expect the system as drawn there to work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcaswell Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 Here is my heater valve I have installed, which hose should be the inlet to the heater. I have an old valve in a box that has and arrow for flow on the valve which is the bottom hose in picture. Is that correct or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 The inlet to the heater matrix is the lower of the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcaswell Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 The re-plumbing is done all new silicone hoses fitted, fresh anti freeze.and a new 90 degree thermostat. All is great have heat on demand now runs at around 90 degrees on gauge and lower on the road. Filled system from the expansion tank at the front and top heater connection no air locks and very Happy with out come. Thanks to everyone who offered assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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