Please tell me there is a trick to tightening the rear lower wishbone bolt??... please.........

[CtrMint]

Guys,

I hope you have a magic trick for tightening the rear nearside lower wishbone bolt.

I've followed the Ikea guide;

"For now, only tighten the nuts/bolts lightly and then torque them up when the car is finished and on the ground.  This sets the bushes correctly and ensures the best handling"

So I'm pretty much there, and addressing these.   Unfortunately, my favourite radiator top hose and catch can are restricting me from gaining access to the rearward bolt.   One option is to drain the coolant system and remove the top hose, then remove the catch can.  This was one of my fears over this stupid design (if you recall earlier posts on the topic), however I foolishly kept the design.  So annoyed about this.

Has anyone any ideas on how to tighten the bolt from below whilst the car is on the ground.   Note I also have the dry sump lines in close proximity underneath too.

[CtrMint]

[ChrisC]

What a pain, I tightened mine before I fitted my shocks, positioning the bushes by jacking the wishbone until it was level with the chassis.  Way before the engine was fitted.   Given your situation a pit might be useful, do you know anyone local?   Even then it’s tight down there with the alternator in position :-(

[ScottR400D]

Could you get at it if it was up on ramps or blocks? 

The WBs need to be about level but not necessarily sitting on the ground. Plenty of ways to get it level; as above, by jacking up each corner in turn when the car is in stands, the WB will be level before it lifts of the stand. 

[CtrMint]

Ahh, if the cars nose can be up in the air, I’ve two trolley jacks so I can lift the car on to stands with one jack and then use the second to lift under the wheel to level it off with the chassis, and get the WB level.

if that is an applicable solution I should be able to do that?

[garybee]

That sounds harder than just draining the coolant into a bucket and removing the hose.  I often find that you put far more effort into avoiding a little extra work than just doing the job the obvious way.  What's it going to add in reality, 10-15 minutes max?

[Geoff Brown]

Seems to me that CCs opinion on when to torque up attachments has changed several times over the years.

My first two Sevens it was as stated with the car on ground, weight on.

BUT the third build instruction for the R400D was quote: "Since access to the upper & lower wishbone mountings are restricted by other components installed later in the build process the mounting fasteners must be fully tightened at this point. Hold the wishbones horizontal & tighten the upper wishbone mounting bolts/nuts to 34Nm & bottom wishbone to 81Nm."

Obviously something got lost in translation when producing the 'IKEA' manual as this is the only way due to the clutter on the near side.  

[CtrMint]

think I'm going to drain the coolant.   

[CtrMint]

That didn't take too long, think this is the way to go.

 

[CtrMint]

still a pig to get at the bolt head mind

[Geoff Brown]

Builders of Duratec cars please note post  #7 BEFORE building up the engine bay 'clutter'.

 

[ScottR400D]

Whatever you do CTrMint, make sure the W/Bs are horizontal to the chassis when you torque up. 

[CtrMint]

It's done.  Dropping the coolant wasn't so bad and took all of 5 minutes in the end.

Tightening those bolts was still a challenge and took a number of hours.  I tackled it from the top down with the car on the ground to ensure the WB were level. 

CC need to sort the instructions on this, telling people to do it at the end is a joke!  It should be done once the engine is in but before any of the cooling, or dry sump system goes in.   I'm far from knowledgeable, but even I can see how stupid their current specific instructions are.